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Bracelets , Crosses

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1905

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Art Treasure for You

a This large ‘“‘Father Time and Lady Elgin” calendar, *yecause of its matchless beauty and superiority of execution, compels tkje admiration of the most discriminating lovers of art. Hanging on the\walls of any home, it will share attention with the most highly prized masterpiece of painting. It is entirely free from all advertising matter. Size 8x15 inches.

£

The calendar is the work of Maud Humphrey, the well-known artist. It illustrates in four beautiful pictures the popular periods of English fash- ion—the fifteenth, seventeenth, nineteenth and twentieth centuries. Its strikingly delicate color effects, combined with remarkable originality of conception, places it among the treasures of art. It is instructive and

valuable from a historical point of view as well. Send for sample calendar. .

e i

ELGIN NATIONAL WATCH CO., General Offices, 131 Wabash Ave., CHICAGO.

a Sear

Size of Mirror and Brush Illustrated % Actual Size. File and Other Articles. Actual Size.

SCARF PINS. #654.—Rose Finish, Brilliant Set. 647, 649, 650, 653:—Can be furnished in Rose or Green Finish and Assorted Stone Settings, Sapphire, Garnet, Amethyst and Topaz.

COLLAR SUPPORTERS. 3554.—Assorted ;

Stones, Pearls, Amethyst. Turquoise, Chry- sophrose and Garnet. 3546.—-Roman Finish,

SCARF PINS. 661.—Rose & Green Finish. 663.—Rose & Green Finish. 655.—Rose Bril- liant. 651, 652 —Rose or Green Finish and Assorted Svones, Sapphire, Garnet, Amethyst and Popaz.

CO”.1 AR SUPPORTERS. 3547.—Assorted Sto. 2s, Pearis, Amethyst, Turquoise, Chry- sophrose and Topaz.

COLLARS. 202.—Rose or Green Finish. 203.—Rose or Green Finish. 204.—-Rose or sacen, is oe furnish on Amethyst,

phire, Lopaz, Turquoise, Chrysophrose Aqua Marine and Rose, Stone Settings, :

BRACELETS. 469.—Rose & Green Finish 470 —Rose & Green Finish. Can furnish in Seip Topaz, Aqua Marine and Sapphire

S.

1585

Look for These

whenever you want

GOODS OF GOOD QUALITY

They stand for our guar- antee and are your protec? tion from imitations.

We are continually add- ing new goods to our lines, and the Jeweler who does not have f&B goods in his stock this season is going to lose business.

The goods illustrated are all new. “fhe Collar Supporters are made in different shapes and with assorted stones, and the Collarettes are of different finishes and a variety of stones set, as are also the

yw -au dh

Bracelets.

Chains, Lockets, Brooch¢j Scarf Pins, Hat Pins, Waist Pins, Bracelets, Link Buttons, Crosses, Earrings, Necklaces and Hair Chain Mountings, Sterling Silver Toilet and Manicure Sets and Useful Novelties.

See our Catalogue for other goods.

THEODORE W. FOSTER & BROTHER COMPANY

MANUFACTURING JEWELERS AND SILVERSMITHS 100 Richmond Street, Providence, R. {.

a

<2 = . . Ee ee Tee Se — -

= — — — —

American and Swiss

MAINSPRINGS

are so well known by the expert and most critical watchmakers that further claims are unnecessary.

—————— ——————————

zd \,

15 eile STE a ul am = " i / == H) WN e726 = | | Z; =i INL) “ ——— | ex = FREE OF CHARGE #2 > | y ° « © VA 9) This Handsome Cabinet fas C—O with three drawers and a series of twenty-six handsomely SS ae} decorated tin boxes, marked with sizes, grades, class, num- ——— ;— Send for a list of ber, width and strength by Demnison’s gage. These boxes eg ara ==

VEE ee —— eee — ——— ~ : are fitted tothe Cabinet, and are specially intended for the = ENERO GY | Nr Styles, Sizes, Width loose mainsprings which naturally accumulate in every ao

ds h b watchmaker’: stock. We will send one of these Cabinets | : . j and Strengt Y free with the first order for one gross of ee Sf Ameri- Size, 15 inches long, 10 inches high and 934 inches deep

Dennison’s Gage can or Swiss Mainsprings. Capacity, 10 Gross COGEP> American and Swiss Springs

—

MAIL ORDERS we care for promptly, and get them to you according to order

Orders filled from any catalogue

L. H. KELLER & Co. ,

IMPORTERS, MANUFACTURERS AND JOBBERS

Fine Watch api toe co hig Supplies 6 4. Nassau St., New Yo r kK

W atches

Non-Retailing 7 means—that we protect the Retail Trade by Positively Refusing to sell any goods other than at Wholesale. Any Jobber who retails becomes a competitor of the Retailer.

Are you buying your Watches from a competitor of yourself? We are not your competitor, and we solicit your trade.

The Non=-Retailing Company

Jobbers in

Watches and Chains Watches Lancaster, Pa. Watches

==NICH.

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WA XG SS

SWISS PATTERN FILES “GOOD WORK REQUIRES GOOD TOOLS”

NICHOLSON FILE COMPANY

| / PROVIDENGE, R. |.

1588

IN AR TAMIR Go IR 2 ~) CAML

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We handle tools and materials in such large quantities that we can give you the best goods at the lowest prices. We are among the largest dealers in this class of goods in the United States, and we pass the benefit of our large-quantity-buying on to you.

And another thing—we fill your orders promptly and as you give them. Our stock is large and complete and our facilities ample. We have what you want and we lose no time in getting it to you.

Try us with a tria’ order and we’ll convince you.

BALANCE STAFFS

ALL PRICES PER DOZEN (senuine B. & J. Ss. Eagle

lactory grand Brand Elgin, RBs ON, a a ais ow ts) fet a Os 6. Oe st. glen, MB EZOD #1.00 % .75 Elgin, Rie PAROS Aa SOM ORE GS ho ak a bo es 4 ow 0 ee we ee Relea Se s\, ei ae 1.00 Sat Elgin, SS a ie Cons ON er ae ae ae ae Pe a ee 4.00 2.50 eh Waltham, all sizes, 7 jewel. — Pe ae ee eee ae Seno) oe Set ee ts as 2.00 1.00 By {33 na SP ceie Ree SOEOIN 8 gg ce fe me wee wie) Bine aw el ee aw), MU 1.00 TIER SITOS, 1s SOWELL 6s ct tee wee eee Ci yg, i 4.00 2.50 TOM RU O WUE, Ss ww. Sg eerie) ew. = a wes ne 6 eS we a ew 5.00 2.50 ae SIE ON MER e a clle ow ie oe oe ww 6 oe oO a eR ee Be 2.00 1.00 45 OR. 2 eG BUR a 6 bo ce 5 8 Se Fup Oe oe + eee a 4.00 2,50 sae

BALANCE JEWELS

ALL PRICES PER DOZEN Genuine E. &J.S. Eagle Factory Brand Brand Elgin, rn. SOW CR nd Se 6 oe + 6 wee ie 4 ee + eee ee $2.00 $1.50 % .75 tte er SOWOL fs se ew tee we ee eA eee 2.10 1,50 75 WU ICIIE TET IMEI IOWOR (6 et ee Ce we ww ee ee 2.05 1.50 ee ~ Illinois, i CO WOE oa sb ss ab oe ee oS Os wis ia eee 1,50 By £53 Hampden, all sizes, 7 to 21 PO Se ed x > ee ew oe Se we toe eat eae 1.50 15

ALL ABOVE PRICES SUBJECT TO 6¢ DISCOUNT FOR CASH

Genuine Factory Material. We keep the different makes and grades of material for American Watches in large

variety. We sell these materials at lowest factory prices. All orders are carefully selected and promptly returned to you.

Our New Catalogue will be extraordinarily handsome and something new in catalogue making. It will be in our hands for October delivery, the printer says. If you have not sent us your name for a copy, do it now—if you are in our territory—and we will send the book free of charge.

E. & J. SWIGART, Cincinnati, Ohio l Ts

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1589

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I FULL MEASURE’

wl A aid a LITTLE MORE | ne

GETTING AN EXTRA PROFIT

The miner has to dig the ore out of the ground and put it through certain processes in order to get the gold.

If the ore contains a little silver and a little copper it means an addition: il clear profit for the miner, with practically no extra labor or expense. :

A wise jeweler conducts his business on the same principle. He sells his goods and runs a repair shop in order to get a profit out of it—the gold.

If the jewelry business and the repair department accumulate a little old gold and silver and bench filings and sweepings, it means an additional clear profit with practically no extra labor or expense.

Make it a rule to gather together and ship your scraps and filings at regular intervals. It rids your store of old junk and puts an extra profit into your cash drawer—a rule that works both ways.

Our old, tried and true plan is: You send your consignment, we send you a check immediately. If the amount of the check is not large enough, you return it and we return your shipment and pay the freight.

We are paying 50 cents per ounce for old silver.

GOLDSMITH BROS.

Sweep Smelters, Refiners and Assayers

igh ber oa CHICAGO, ILL.

ta Dip

An “ Sa ED 7

4 BP Sto, = > sf ’ ee 22 ay Lee ae yore

:

BETSY ROSS TERRITORY

The Betsy Ross Memorial As- sociation has 957,922 members. Here is where they live. Most of them will buy the Betsy Koss Watch if you let them know about it. Isn’t this a substan- tial nucleus of trade?

[ID you ever see a prettier headpiece to an advertisement than these new Jas. Boss 20-year cases we are using for the Betsy Ross Complete O-size Watch? They are entirely worthy

of this interesting association, and the movement 1s |

Six New Enzland States entirely worthy of these admirable examples of case-

Massachusetts, 60,570 | New Hampshire, 3,480 making—a combination that has created a pheno- Rhode Island, 17,070 Maine, 2,520 oe , Connecticut, 16.350 Vermont, 1,290 menal demand. Jhere is no better seller than the

101,280

Four Middle States

Pennsylvania, 295,080 New Jersey, 97,110 New York, 210,780 Delaware, 4,830

607,800

Eleven Southern States

Maryland, 3,040 North Carolina, 600 West Virginia, 1,620 Texas, 570 Virginia, 1,560 Seuth Carolina, 300 Louisiana, 1,500 Alabama, 270 Florida, 750 Mississippi, go Georgia 690

30,990

Twenty-four Western States

COMPLETE W A i @ O-SIZE i i

Ohio, 28,800 Oregon, 1,890

lliinois, 19,590 Kansas, 1,740

Indiana, y,630 Utah, 1,170

Missouri, 8,190 Tennessee, 1,080

California, 7.800 Washington, 930

Wisconsin, 6,960 North Dakota, 870 , : :

Michigan, 6,060 Montana, 570 Its extrinsic worth makes the demand and the story Kentucky, 3,300 South Dakota, 330 ? ; : , : : Minnesota, 3,090 Arkansas, 300 of Betsy Ross colors it with enthusiasm. If vou Iowa, 2940 Idaho, 210 ; ad ik Nebraska, 2,760 Nevada, 180 have not ordered, you have a trade waiting: if vou Colorado, 2,190 Wyoming, 60 — — : o! E

110,640 have ordered, you will need more this fall, and yet

Territories and Colonies ; more as the holiday trade develops. Do not delay

New Mexico, 480 Oklahoma, 60

Hawail 330 ~=3©Ladrone Islands, 60 —_ the yressure ol » foe 7 1¢ oetti ere se) eee

Philippine Islands 210 indian Territory, 30 : 1 the factory iS getting greatel C\ Cry

ee on here Ried, 30 day. here is no other such value in O-size com- 1ZONa, O ‘i

1,380

plete watches. Order from your jobber.

District of Columbia, 8,280 U. S. Navy, 330-

8,610

Foreign Countries

We have just prepared a very interesting folder

Canada, 180 Scotland, | 30 —in colors—illustrating the Betsy Ross Watch and France, 150 South Africa, 39 telling how and where she made the first American aos Ss cee oe flag. We print your name on 2 ee furnish free ’ -tilidlly, ) ~# i. Rep. of Colombia, 60 China, 30 aS Many aS you can use. Send your business card. Cuba, 60 Costa Rica, 30

Australia 60 Mexico, 30

Nova Scotia, 30 —__——

The Keystone Watch Case Co.

chides Philadelph a Cincinnati

San Francisco

In club form, 866,220 In miscellaneous form, 91,702

Grand _ total, 957,922

Adjustable Jaw Roller Remover, No. 16

The two movable jaws are easily adjusted so they will take in any size roller by means of the knurled screw.

Price each, $1.50

=

Lathe Loupe,

(PATENT APPLIED FOR)

Gee 2

A most useful article, devised by a practical watchmaker. Easily applied to any make lathe, If great. power is required, bring into action the two lenses ; otherwise swing the small lens out of place.

tings of two different sizes are furnished with each loupe to meet all requirements. The loupe will enable anyone to inspect the work without bending close to it as with ordinary eye-loupe,

Price, $1.25 each

For refinishing balance pivots without removing the hairspring or roller, and protecting them while the pivots are being vrepolished. Made for all standard sizes of American Lathes,

Price, $3.50

a

CLOCK HAND SET COMBINATION

Frosting or Matting Tool, No. 1 No. 16

(PATENTED) Consists of all the styles used on the Wheels, Bridges and Plates, which at present can only be polished, may, with this tool, be given following Clock Co’s Movements: a frosted or matted surface similar to the original finish produced in the factory, Wheels may be placed in the lathe or otherwise held, polished witb fine emery paper and the small roll used with light ANSONIA, SETH THOMAS, pressure for refrosting. Bridges, Plates or other large flat surfaces may be treated in the same way GILBERT, WATERBURY, with fine emery paper, after which the large roll is to be passed forward and backward over the work NEW HAVEN, WESTERN.

with light pressure.

Price per set, $1.00

CONTENTS 50 PIECES. PRICE $1.00

_ jy i il (aa ‘i I Ha il ag ie 1

BACK WINDER COMBINATION

No. 17

Consists of all the styles used on the following Clock Co’s Movements:

ANSONIA, SETH THOMAS, GILBERT, WATERBURY, NEW HAVEN, WESTERN.

| CONTENTS 50 PIECES. PRICE $1.50

CLOW’S | Steel Screw Solven ii REMOVES §

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SCREWS,

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Hyun pity

Order from your Jobber.

Clow’s Steel If he is unable to supply you, Screw Solvent if you will write us we will in-

form you who can.

is a chemical preparation for removing steel screws that have been broken off

i, \ : = or rusted in Watch Plates, Jad alls HAMMEL Jeweled Bearing ale, No. 120 Spectacle Frames. 9

It Acts Only on Steel

Above illustration represents our new line of Jeweled Scales, which we furnish in various sizes, The bearings supporting beams are jeweled. Pans are hung in hardened It abolishes the old cus- knife bearings. Adjusting screws on ends of beams. Exceedingly sensitive. All parts tom of punching or drilling heavily nickel-plated. Removable pans. Finely finished hardwood boxes. Weights out screws. With this sd finely adjusted. o : $ 8.00 preparation a screw can be omplete with set of 20z. weights. ..... ° removed in from ten min- ° i es Ce ES RESON oe aa a 10.00 utes to one hour without AC & 49 Maiden Lane PRICES oe a6 £6 GikE SE oie ats 12.00 taking any of your time.

(f3 “c “cc 8 sc 4“

i “ en : : | : : bleh eaioe directions with each NEW YORK

A fine seale at a moderate price Price, 50 cents

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<2.

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English Case as Received As Remodoled for American S, W. Movement

WENDELL G COMPANY WATCH CASE MAKERS, REMODELERS AND REPAIRERS

Special Cases to order in Gold and Silver, for English, Swiss and American Moyements. Key-Wind Cases changed to Stem-Wind. English Cases changed to fit American Movements without altering outside appearance. Hunting Cases changed to Open-F ace. Old Watch Cases Repaired and Renewed. Melting old gold cases and making over into new case (using same gold) a specialty,

TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS 103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

NEW CLAWS ON OLD DIAMOND RINGS

a

These cuts show the same rings with new, high elaws, stones securely reset, and entire rings refinished like new,

These two cuts show Flat and Round Beleher Rings as received, with claws badly worn off und too low to permit resetting stones again,

Net Price for six new claws, resetting stone and refinishing ring like new,$ .75 to $1 25 ra os oe eight ** és oe se se os se se oy 1.00 to 2.00 We retip or put new claws on diamond Tiffany, Belcher, Tooth anderings of every description, to cost from 75c. to $2.00, according to the condition of ring and number of claws in setting.

These two cuts show initial and cameo glove ring, with two and four claws soldered to the setting, which holds the sets in very securely.

Two new Claws on glovering, 50c. Four te 4s 4s é es 7 5c.

WENDELL & COMPANY

The Special Manufacturers for ‘i = the Retail Jewelry Trade ‘I TT TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS

Initial glove ring withone 103-105 William St. 57 Washington St. elaw ateach end holding set. NEW YORK CHICAGO

IS 2s

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Cameo glove ring with four claws ut corners holding set.

SAMPLE JOB AS RECEIVED

4 a es, _

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FANCY LINK CHAIN AS RECEIVED FOR RENEWING

> — Se E "ps TUTE rwRRREET Nn UPEEVRRRD PTT TPeneTT TTR EPH NNT TPOHRUOrVOUPrETD*ASETUNSUTPIIPUTNSPTERPEREPRTIONDY r ’ he, , 3 (om © ° er 2 pea? 2? om 3 x T MPPNETPETERNRRRT TTT TTS (Perry TT irepreteerTst Dreprenreerneey " F, aati a - —~ ~~ ’ : i)

AS DELIVERED Gold Chains Refilled, Renewed and Repaired

Oid Chains made over into new patterns, using same gold Good Work. Low Prices. Prompt Attention

WENDELL & COMPANY

THE SPECIAL MANUFACTURERS FOR THE RETAIL JEWELRY TRADE

NEW YORK CHICAGO

103-105 William Street UL Sues. 57 Washington Street

FUL SHOPS

Stone-Setting

We carry a most complete stock of Precious and Semi-Precious Stones for special work and replacing lost sets. \We import them direct from the cutters in Europe, and furnish them to the trade in single stones at dozen and gross prices.

Have your stone-setting done in our shops and save from thirty-five to fifty per cent. °

We employ first-class setters, and turn out work very promptly.

No job too small to receive our careful attention.

Wendell & Company

Repairers and Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

103-105 William Street TWO LARGE 57 Washington Street NEW YORK FACTORIES CHICAGO

For 23 years we have been doing

Gold and Silver Plating

Sterling and Plated Ware Repairing for the: Trade

Do we do yours? Our plating rooms are the best equipped in the country for job work.

BEFORE

WE REPLATE

WE REPAIR |

any article in the silverware line; making any metal article in gold, silver, nickel, lew parts to match the old ones that have | bronze, brass, oxidized silver, old bronze 5 ; , ; Ze,

been melted or broken off, the same as new. statuary bronze, and all antique finishes,

Wendell & Company

Repairers and Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

TWO WONDERFUL SHOPS 103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

Great Promptness in Getting Out Special Order Work and Repairing of all kinds

together with Good Work and Low Prices are the features that made our business the only success of its kind in the country.

For 23 years we have made a separate and distinct business of doing special Order Work and Repairing for the Trade.

We understand our business and there is not a Job or Special Order for New Work that is taken into a Retail Jewelry Store (except watch work ) that we are not prepared to do in our own factories.

It is to your best interest to deal with us. By giving your customers perfect satisfaction with theirrepairs and made-to-order work, you increase your entire business.

Send for our Repair Price-List and Special Order Work Catalogues

Wendell & Company

The Special Manufacturers for the Retail Jewelry Trade

Two Wonderful Shops in Fire-Proof Buildings 103-105 William Street, New York 57 Washington Street, Chicago

American-Made Balance Staffs and Hole Jewels for American Watches, in Separate Size Holes and Pivot

Cut showing set of 6 cabinets The cabinets Qo eg Gr are made an GAG Soman SF COLS . — Ser ne 1020. _ — w. SREEN & CO's =fmperiatt” American Balance Staffs. — — = — = even, flat, uni- , f CER ag AER ANY, ; wotte. | wing | sue | Gatsion {Seo | Bowe. | xing | sie | Catmior | Shoot | Hotte | kina | sie | Sete | Ste form size for «<< Al Cf Star; a 4 “Waltham is 1364 14 __ ti 25 | Waltham “oO 19365 | 10 _ 49 Elgin fil my }_ 1906 — 9 convenience of R SET ‘ me ae fw pee | 13 1364 1S 26 ye Rss 19360 | Cs z 5 | 28 Pa iS Sonn placing one on @ altham is 1364 \ falthaim Oo 19369 | C gin 2 5 < " on: _4_ Waltham! 18 | 13865 | 11 23 Waltham © |Moel 1900! Ree 52 Elgin a BOB NS. oe the other ree two le Ww altham fa18 1865 EX a ist 29 | Waltham aOnn Modal 119OO)} v r 63 Elgin _ eS} BGRNS, | 10_ s m a ] ] cabinets = _ 6 | Waltham |" 138} 1866 | 13 FF 30 _| Waltham |iewel Series| |] 4 | Elgin 6 | B8G8NS | 11 being exact size ew altham | 18 | 1703 | 12 | 3l 2S Elgin 14 867 7 NSS.H) 1 55 | Flgin | 6 =t* x68 05. 10_ of one large cab- _ 8 | Waltham] 18 | 1703a il 32 | Figin | 18 |BS57NSSH! 12 7 BB | Elgin | 6 | RBS0S. | Nl inet. Thev are & 9 | Waltham| 18 | 17034 | 12 [33 |_ Elgin | 18 |8574NSSH! 13 [| B7_| Elgin | O | 860 8 et. 1eY are poy _10 | Waltham |“16_ |" 2844 | YO [34 |" Eigin | 18 |S57NSSH) 14 [| BB | Elkin | O | 869 | © compact, handy _#€ | Waltham |" 16 2344 | 11 7 38 | ae [18 [S57 NSCH! 12 7 BO | Elgin O | 889 | 10 and readily & _§2 | Walham|" 16 |"2844 | 12 [7 36 | Eigin 18 |B57NSLH) 13° 7 6O | Elgin | O | 1731 | O_ ed in asmaill _ 13 | Waltham|_16 |"2844 |_i3 | 37 _|_ Elgin | 18 |RBSO7KSIM! 14 | 6F | Elgin (om BS ccs Wl eS tom placed in es fi $ _14 | Waltham|"16 | wop.b0 | 10 | 38 | Elgin | 18 |SS7NSLH| 15 [62 |Hampden| 18 | 64 | 11 case or 1n sale. 1 15 | Waltham) 16 |wop. 00 | 11 [39 | Figin | 18 "| 8570S. |_18 | _63_|Hampden| 18 64 __|_ 12 Contents of _ 16 | Waltham | 16 | Mop. 06 | 12 40 | Figin | 18 | 85705 | 1 “4 {| 64 |Hampden| 18_ = 64 | 13 each cabinet is & _07 | Waltham| 12° |" 8142 | 9 [46 | Elgin aces 85708 |_15 | 68 |Hampden| 18 | 64 | 14 stamped promi- _t8 | Waltham |" 12 | 8142 | 10 [42 | Figin 63 SGINS. | 10 66 Illinois | 18 | G { 12 : a Re : Pal a ~ 9 | Waltham|"i2 | 8142 |" [43 | Elgin _ = | 861Ns. | 1 67 | Illinois [18 A SS nently in sliver 20 | Waltham] 6 | dE 10 | 44 | Elgin | 16 | S6INS. | 12 | 68 | Minos | 18 | 6 | 14 leaf. _20 | Waltham | 6 1321Q | 11 | 48 | Elgin | 16 | SGiNS | 13 | 69_ |_Minois_ ey = OS oy a ~220) “Waltham | _8 | 18220 | 10 [46 | Elgin | 167] 8610S | it 7 70 |_ Illinois | 18 | 206 | 12 _ = ~ ; ; < s ~23 | Waltham | 6 | 13220 |_t1_|47_|_Figin_|_16_|_Se10s | 12 |_74_|_Minois |_is8_|_206 | 13 We desire to call your attention to the accompanying illustrations 24 | Waltham | _ O 19365 rs) 48 | ~ Elgin 16 $6105. | nice iP illinois 118 | 205 | 14

“Ww. “GREEN & CO., Watob Materials and Jewolere’ Suppilen, 6 Malden Lane, New York.

showing and describing the highest grade American=made Balance Staffs and Balance-Hole Jewels in Settings. Both Staffs and Jewels have been made on scientific principles and are interchangeable—the staffs fitting the jewels of corresponding size and number as shown in cut and index. The Staffs are highly polished, tem- pered and guaranteed to be perfectly true and correctly gaged. The Jewels are genuine Ruby and Sapphire of the finest quality, and settings are gaged to fit accurately. Particular attention has been given to making the countersink in jewels sufficiently deep to prevent the spreading of oil, also.to have the walls of jewels as short as possible without making them too thin, which is one of the main faults with most American jewels in the market.

By having a supply of our American Staffs and Jewels arranged in our cabinets, with each size hole and pivot in a separate bottle, it. affords greater facilities in selecting the material, and much time and annoyance is thus avoided. This method of keeping staffs and jewels saves time, patience and money, and com- bines simplicity with economy. Each bottle is numbered to corre- spond with an accurate directory and guide, placed in each cabinet, to enable any size or style to be duplicated by simply quoting the num- ber. The sets as described below are arranged in velvet compartments in handsome well-made Leatherette Cabinets, with hinged cover and

SET NO. 10068, W. GREEN & CO.'S “Imperial” American Set, Balance Hole Jewels,

| {100 | Size of ,, ott r Kin ae ode Sock or Foo wae distant Rinc | Size Move! Jock or Foot piece: Kiod | Size Model Cock or Foos Hole ° = - . ys fe e ° r ; 5 - Bhisenvie| Rint tee | aeant_| covnerro | TRS bar] Hint | ae | : a Lib =H L nickel-plated snap lock, containing evenly-made bottles with corks. 10! | waittam | 18) | New [Cock &Foot| 11 125 | waltham | 0612 | New | Cock__|_ 8 Eigia 6__| Old & New Cock & Foot! _10_ eee 102 | waittam | 13 | New |Cock&Foot| 12 | 126 | waitm | 0612 | New | Cock | 9 D | Elgin | 6 | Old & New\Cock & Foot|__11 Pe, 103 | waittas | 18 | New |Cock&Foot) 13 _'27_) waltham | 0612 | New | Cock | _10 Eigin | 0 | Old & New|Cock & Foot! 8 eee 104 | watttam | 18 | New |Cock&Foot) 14 9128 | waittam | 0612 | New Cock | 1 _ 2.) Een | 0 | Old & New/Cock & Foot) 9 _ J EW j S ST FES ee 105 | Waltham | 18 New _|Cock& Foot} 15 |_129 | waltham | 0612 | New | Foot 8 Hsin |__0 | Old & New|Cock & Foot) 10 E A were | 106) watthem | 18 | New |Cock&Foot| 16 130 | waltham | 0612 | New | Foot 9 | Hampden | 18 |Old & New| Cock | __ L107 | wate | 18 | Old | Foot | 11 9131 _| waltham | 0612] New | Foot | 10 | Mampder | 18 |Old & New| — Cock _|_12 _ a marl tex B\108 | watttam | 18 | Old | Foot 12 |_132_| waltham | 06-12 | New |__ Foot uN _| Hampden | 18 _| Old & New| Cock _|_13__ Set 1000. Cabinet containing 36 bot- Set 1010. Cabinet containing 36 bot- pogo | 109 | waltham | 18 _| _Old___|__ Foot 13 133_| Elgin | 18 |[OM& New/Coet & Foot!| ae | Hampden | 18 | Cet & New| __Cock 14 vee tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Potal tles with 1 dozen in each bottle, Total quan- Rea 10) wattem | is | Or Foot __|_M4_} 1° |_Bee_|_18_|Old & New (Cock & Foot|_12_ jmomptes EO Eee eS | ee quantity, 3 gross. Price complete, $40.00. tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $40.00. fee!) | waimam | 18 | Old | Foot 15 135_ __figin | 18 | Old & New|Cock & Foot! __13 | Hampdea | 18 | Old & New!__ Foot} yes He B82 | wire | is | ov Foot 6_}_136_|_tigin_|_18 | O14 & New|Cock & Foot! _14 Mamedza |_15__|O1d & New] __Foot__|_12_ Set 1001. Cabinet containing 36 bot- Set 1011. Cabinet containing 36 bot- fee [1S | women |_16 |New #014) __Cock __|_10_}_137_|_Sigt_!_18_} Old & New|Cock & Foot!_1s |-Hsmeten_|_18__] 014. New! _Foot__| 38 tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- | tles, with 44 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- wee | 114 | waitham | 16 [New& Ole} Cock | 11_§-_ 138 | Elgin | 18 | Old & New lCock & Foot 16 _ 2_| Mampden | 13 [Old & New, Foot | _14 tity 114 pee Ie Price com lete, $22. 50. tity. 134 ros Price c let $22. 50. L''5 | wattham 16 |New&Old} Cock 12_ §_139_ | Elgin 16 _| Old & New|Cock & Foot| 19 | Mampden | 18 | Old & New| Voot | 15 ity, 2 gross. ri p Y, 47% Sross. omptete, : 116 | Watttam | 16 |New&Oid| Cock | 13 140 | Eien | 16 | Old & New Cock & Foot! 11 Wines | 18 |Old& New! Cock 12 2. Bess peels | Waltham 2 18 |New & Old| Cock} 4 mek _ Eigin | 16 | Old & New|Cock & Foot|__12_ | _Wingia | 18 | Old & New Cock pe) tae Set 1002. Cabinet conti ining 36 bot- Set 1012 Cz abinet containing 36 bot- | 118 | wattam | 16 |\New&Old| Cock 15 [142 | eigin_| 16 | Old & New|Cock & Foot|_13_ ~litissis | 18 |Old & New! Cock | 14 __ tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- tles, with } V, dozen in each bottle. Total quan- reed | 119 | waltham 10 |New&Old| Foot | 10 9 143 | fee | 12 | New [Cock & Foot! 8 _Wiesis | 18 |Ol4& New) _ Cock 15 tity, 3=4 ‘gross. Price complete, $12.25. tity, 3nd. gross. Price complete, $12.25. | 420 © waltham 16 |New &Old| Foot |_11 144 | Eigin | 32 | New _|Cock & Foot/_ 9 _lWisois_|__18__| Old & New) __ Foot [2 121 Walttan | 16 |New&Old| Foot | _12 145 | Elgin | 12 | New _|Cock & Foot! __10 —iilinets_|_18__| Old & New! __Foot__|_18 Set 1005. Cabinet containing TO DOt= Set 1020. Cabinet containing 72 hbot- RM | 122 Walttam | 16 |New&Oid| _ F {139 146] etm | 12 | New (Cock & Fons ' ue i 1s Sos “w toes 4 tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Total tles, with 1 dozen in each bottle. Tot il quan- . 123 _Waltham 16 |New & Old Foot ) 147 | Elgin | 6 | Old & New Cock oy 8 | inois, | 18 ew)___ Foot | 18 ages pe e 124 watttam | 16 |New& Old! Foot | as 4148 | elem | \O1d& New Cock & Foot! 9 6 472 1 Wises | 18 |Ol@Newi Poot | _16°_ quantity, 6 gross. Price complete,$75.00. tity, 6 gross. Price complete, $75.00. W, GREEN & CO., WATCH MATERIALS AND JEWELERS SUPPLIES. 6 MAIDEN LANE. NEw Yorn.

Set 1006. Cabinet containing 72 bot- Set 1021. Cabinet containing 72 bot- tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Totalquan- | tles, with 44 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $42.50. tity, 3 gross. Price complete, $42.50.

SS << < sans SRE RE SERENE ~

oC ce SiR we em — AeA \ Set 1007. Cabinet containing 72 bot- Set 1022. Cabinet containing 72 bot- aks is cs ‘ eK Xo tles, with 74 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- | tles, with 14 dozen in each bottle. Total quan- pyle Se OCEESO tity, 114 gross. Price complete, $24.00. | tity, 114 gross. Price complete, $24.00. HAA Als ES Sea \ tity, 14 M

Sa — . > oe ; ONY CON AKG \

‘8

eae cae aaa << . < ae For replenishing stock woh \\ Rae AK oy = Ane Ww ie sk

‘ay. ye N EN WK Ne

Price per Gross, $15.00

2. MO aD BAOAVON DS YOR qs os OLPNYA 3 uN aon arcana SVEN s AS NES : Seeteeeenaeaaees : 66 66 Dozen I 3 5 = Sate TL CEL AN = SSA RE SA ee ‘ oe Se ee LONG EARA BOLE. D BO

one UAT A SEAS SN Kak ck ALEK . eras.

\ SX AG Wass ele ee As =) NOTE :—Cut this page out of THE KEYSTONE and insert to SACRO NN Os PANN oN x AEN ENE . it either in your Catalogue or paste in a con- 7 | venient spot near your workbench. Do not cut PATO SATE ————— mS —— peers rane EERSTE TTR ; or destroy the illustration, as we can fill all ' ' 5 zee, >. se Se orders correctly simply by quoting number desired.

’ \ GREEN & CO Maiden Lane Exborices hoe Se teenie ae Jobb ewelers’, Engr : bP NEW YORK, U.S.A. WManitactarers Opticians’ Supplies

1594

Hewes Hand-Wrought Gravers

UE SMT Te J. F.HEWES “Allie

404,

SCOOT TOIT

Skillful workmen.

Made oe by hand, by s Each one carefully tempered and tested. They are hard, tough and reliable; will cut anything from lead to steel. Every one warranted unconditionally.

This style can ‘be had with round, flat or square tops, assorted sizes.

Straight Gravers . - ; 4 Curved Gravers ; ‘ x ‘

For sale by all jobbers.

Try the Phoenix Recoiling Mainsprings

The best in the market. Expert watchmakers pronounce them to be perfect in every respect. Order from your jobber. If he is unable to supply you, write us and we will inform you who can.

$1.00 Dozen; $12.00 Gross

HENRY ZIMMERN & Co., INC., Sole Agents, 77 John Street, NEW YORK

JaAalry

7s THESE ELECTRO-PLATING SALTS ane : Cg i397 \:ONN Kp DRY FORM@su iyi © IMETALann SS AL E ACCURATE PRO:

(oie SuaDes. DISSOLVED INWATER THE BATH ISRTONCE!|

‘READY FOR USE. WORKED win EITHER “BATTERY, SAME AS OTHER SOLUTIONS. warn ocone

CLOSED

i

OPEN ACTUAL SIZE CLOSED

YOU my have this wonderful catch, which locks itself, on all your ———— Diamond Brooches or Mountings without extra charge. [t absolutely secures the pintongue ; simply insist on having it. Special Prices on this Catch, in Large Quantities, to Manufacturers, Wholesalers and Exporters

We make every possible conception in Diamond Mountings, Mounted Diamond or Rich Gold Jewelry at values that defy competition, because we buy all our loose stones in Europe for spot casa of first hands.

When YOU intend purchasing your DIAMONDS, Rubies, Sapphires, oe Pearls, etc., for the Holiday business, write us for a selection

~~ ABEL BROS. & CO.

Importers and Cutters of Diamonds. Makers of Fascinating Diamond Jewelry

Abel Building, John & William Streets, NEW YORK

Branches in Amsterdam, Antwerp, Paris, London, Idar, Oberstein

SOME OF THE SALTS:

Guinea Green, Guinea Rose, Gold Dip, Silver salts, French Gr: ay Dip, Silve a0 bonizer, Oxides, Kte. OUK Sr a PLATING SALTS F

are the leading shades now extensively used for single and double coloring. kind of work with order.

Rose Gold, Green Gold, Parisian, Roman, 14 or 18 K., Red, Guinea, Old E nglish

Dark Green Gold x= Orange Rose Gold

(Antique Green) (Orange Yellow) Directions for doing this Write for circular.

H. Hirschbach, Prop., 80 Elm St., NEW YORK

Our Electro-Plating Salts are universally used.

U. S. ELECTRO-CHEMICAL CO.,

No. 6-F Automaton Blowpipe

For Light Soldering

The flame can be instantly changed from a needle point to a large brush flame. the hand does it.

Price by mail, $2.00

The ‘‘B. D. M. Co.’s”’ original No. 6-F Automaton Blowpipe is substantially made aid correctly proportioned to give best results.

A slight movement of

Order direct, or specify ‘6B. D. M. Co.’s’”’ when ordering through your dealer. Write for catalogue ‘‘B. k.’’ illustrating gas and_ gasoline

furnaces and blowpipes, foot blowers, etc.

Buffalo Dent2z] Manufacturing Co. 587 and 589 Main St. BUFFALO, N. Y., U.S.A.

IN LINE FOR THE FALL TRADE

j

Everything in American

Order from any catalogue

Tools and Materials

Jobbing Stones Novelties and Souvenirs

Mail Orders our Specialty

L.. COHEN & CO,

630 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W. Washington, D.C.

Send for Prices on our New Nickel Alarm Clock and the New Guaranteed Dollar Watch,

Stem Wind and Set.

] i :

} |

il i |

mt

i

|

Two articles each cost a dollar. One sells for $1.25, the other sells for $1.75. Why? Send for our emblem catalogue and you will know.

iN i

bh Ss ee ERR ES Sod Tee lap testers $ + (Ve ead BO “est tee oe £2587 we .

ole eae tees Oe

i eet ieuteeg ts ets wetter et Pe eNrey, : ie B25. — , £2 OB nee - wise SNe ; sole

sig * 8 ee tee toot OY Perr ts

All the Year Essentials | THE W. J. FEELEY COMPANY

‘‘STAR’’ Brand American Mainsprings. cate duality, fine E 1 . crocus finish, correctly gaged; made of the finest special steel; the tips are fitted perfectly. Price per dozen, 85c. cc esiastical Art Metal Workers Bou cash; price per gross, $9.5€ net fash -

SPECIAL. We will give an elegant Solid Oak Mainspring Cabi- net, with (20) drawers, worth $6.00, with your first order 203 Eddy Street, PROVIDENCE, R. I. fori gross of ‘‘ Star’’ American Mainsprings, assorted to suit, for $10.50 net cash.

* **STAR”’ Brand American Balance Staffs, extra fine, made by the latest improved automatic machinery, cor-

rectly gaged, special 7 Jewel grades, -

90c. 5 Jewel grades, polished, $1.15. 17 Jewel grades, polished, $1.35 per dozen, net cash.

: * ‘‘STAR”’ Brand American Balance Hole Cock and Foot Jewels in set-

tings, made by automatic machinery, correctly gaged, snecial, per dozen, 90c. net cash.

* ‘*STAR”’ Brand American Roller Jewels that will fit properly, 25c. per dozen ; special, $2.50 per gross net cash, including Oak Cabinet with 12 bottles.

* “STAR” Brand American Long Case Screws that will fit properly, 20c.

per dozen; special, $2.00 per gross net cash, including Oak Cabinet with 12 bottles.

i All the above prices are strictly NET CASH.

Orders filled in rotation as received.

H.B. Peters & Co., pizzavay, New York

BRAND

In Pure Stone

Amethyst, Topaz, Garnet, Crystal, Onyx and Turquoise. Mounted in 14 K. rolled-gold plate, $10.00, $12.00, $14.00 each. Mounted in solid gold, $35.00 to $50.00

each.

In Imitation Stone Mounted in 14 K. rolled-gold

plate, stones of good color, clear cut facets, Amethyst, Topaz, Garnet, Emerald, Crystal, Opal and Turquoise.

Mother of Pearl

Prices—$2.00, $2.50, $3.50, $4.00 and $5.00 each.

Our new illustrated Catalogue now ready for distribution. Mailed on request. Selection package on application.

Our list includes Chalices, Ciboria. Osten-= soria, Crucifixes, Candlesticks, Candelabra ae Steele Memorial Library Building, ELMIRA, N.Y. : f é ; :

: Pulpits, Altar Lamps, Sanctuary Rails and 55 sNortn ught ; a beautiful building; ground floor location. The finest equipment. Your PISS IPSs s y R a No. SEs instructor the author of ‘‘The Art of Engraving,’? “Modern Letter Engraving,’ etc. Memorial Tablets, In Sterling Silver, $1.00 each

an

1596

A GOLDEN RULE

Trade with us as you would have others trade with you

Get on our satisfied list and get the refining end

of your business oft your mind

THE BROWN & DEAN COMPANY

3 s 102 and 104 Richmond Street Gold and Silver Refiners Ructincae s

RELIABILITY—TI HAT’S THE POINT

For 43 years Wm. Kleeman & Co. have held the record for High Art Jewelers’ Store Fixtures MADE TO ORDER,

from plans and specifications which they pre- pare through

LLG ; ee ale SGiattik ad BS She ts SSS BAL | lI Sass = correspondence si : —— a NS a eee or personal inter- | oS ae een C4 SNK views with their a a Setest Kermit OR Rory SSS SN experienced Ss WGA LES Wh 4h i travelin ne “hy “<< £ —\ eee \ Aen AMS. ee eae e Ae ALN Sh i SS See s representatives, a : . ah x ae ee No regular HAND-ME-DOWN STOCK, MODELS OR DESIGNS. THAT’S THE KIND OF CABINET WORK WE LEARNED HOW Every piece of Store Furniture to suit the demand of the location, the | TO MAKE. business expected to be gained and THE CUSTOMER’S POCKETBOOK. | Do you need us? If yon need information, our draughtsmen are at YOU PAY NO MORE for what you need and want and ought to get your service. No charge for plans, designs or suggestions. than you used to pay for ready-made fixtures, and the kind of wood or glass Delivery guaranteed within the time it takes the sluggish, old-time dealer and color of finish is to your individual taste. to pack his stock goods, and at REASONABLE COMPETITIVE PRICES.

WRITE US; WE’LL TELL YOU ALL ABOUT IT

For 43 years Largest Makers of High-Grade Jewelers’ Store Fixtures, Wholesale Int and Offices in the World

1597

TO THE RETAILER:—IFf you want a line of RINGS that will sell at sight and pay you a good profit—Rings that will not come back with the stones out, to plague you—try the BRYANT RINGS.

We have made and sold them for 50 Years.

M. B. BRYANT & CO. ren 7 Matden Lane, NEW YORK

SEND AT ONCE

for the most complete Catalogue of Fire and Police Depart- ment Badges ever published

THE C. G. BRAXMAR CO.

Manufacturers No. 10 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

HIGH-GRADE JEWELRY STORE FIXTURES

wy Sis te :

THE EXTREME OF BEAUTY it store iurniture 1s attaimedsin our special jewelry store fixtures in

ORIGINAL DESIGNS

Counters, Show Cases, Wall Cases and all manner of artistic cabinet work.

EXCLUSIVE AND UNIQUE

Drawings and estimates furnished free.

Glaser, Rohrer & Co., Pn ave Fee" New York

. ) )

, 90e.

Per dozen yards Per dozen yards, 60.. ;

. -

18 leaves to yard. 12 leaves to yard.

Ivy Vine. Ivy Vine.

No. 91024 per gross yards, $9.00.

Per No. 91022. per gross yards, $6.00.

.

12 leaves to vard.

ards, $6.00,

Maple Vine, autumn shaded, Sy

dozen yards, 60c. ; per gros

No. 91011.

2 0”

No. 91005.

im any color ar

large paper chrysanthemums

r dozen yards, $3.00

Chrysanthemum Vine.

1d 12 leaves to yard.

No. 91015. finely plated leaves to yard. $1.50.

Grape Vine.

Per gross yards, $15.00.

No. 91199.

ach, 60c. ; per dozen $6.00,

No. 91186. No. 91187,

Just as pretty and natural appearing as the natural ones, but not quite as expensive, though

Rose sprays, 14 in, long, per dozen, $1.50

ty OF

hos Sat

a 14 in, oS

better for lasting qualities.

per gross

b]

Pe

~

yards, $30.00.

No. In. high Lys. Each 91851 24 4 $ .40 91855 36 5 10 91857 36 6§ 1.00 91860 42 12 2.00

C

SAGO PLANTS ( Unpotted. )

No. 91121 HRYSANTHEMUM SPRAY

No. In. long

91121 18 $2.40 91122 24 3.00 91120 14 1.50 9756. Paper Chrysanthe-

mums, any color, per

doz., 49c.; per gross, $4.00

9 large green very Per dozen yards

AMERICAN BEAUTY

The best imitation to nature yet produced, each spray 36 inches long, roses can be had in any color.

Doz. £4.00

7.60 10.00 20.00

Per. Doz.

?

MONSTER GRAPE A wonderful piece of work, being equal or even superior in size and shape to the largest bunch of grapes ever grown in sunny California, aud for appearance deceptive enough to eat. Just the thing for fall decoration, for store, show win- dow, ete. No. Each 91990. 18 in. long,containing 2 gross

of single berries, round $2.50

91991. 12 in. long,containing 1 gross

of single berries, round 1.50 91992. Sin. long, containing 6 dozen

of single berries, round By £3) 91993. din, long, containing 2 dozen

of single berries, flat .20 91975. 4in. long,containing 114 doz,

of single berries, flat 15

The above grape clusters may be had in either red, blue or green. "For prices of gold or silver grapes, ask for special quotations.

.)

EN 2

No. 91031, yards, $1.50;

a GY oe? ee a ‘v4 = VY <

5 Ausf ees

No. 91896, 24 inches diameter. oak leaves, just in season,

Oak Vine.

at ¥

per gross yards, $15.00.

3 + as a

z t ‘

hy

OAK WREATH Made of fine autumn shaded ach, $1.50.

PREPARED PUFFING

of cotton bunting for trimming the woodwork and background of your show window, Ser- viceable for background to my vines. Can be had in any desired color. In widths of 134 3%

Price per yd. 5c. 7c.

1014 inches

15c.

Also Complete Line of

Paper Flowers for Parades, Carnivals, etc., to decorate Floats, etc.

‘4 No. 91842. Areca Plant 7 (Unpotted)

No. 91834. PALM TREE rn a

(I otted ) S Sb é S aS

No. Ft. high Lvs. Each Pair A ss. mm Rico 91830 7 12 $3.00 $5.50 91840 24 3 .20 $$ 2.00 91882 9 18 4.00 7.00 91841 36 Db Gio 7.50 91834 12 24 6.00 11.00 91842 42 6 .85 8.50 91843 48 8 1.00 10.00 91844 60 10 1.5 15.00 91845 60 12 2,00 20.00

If you have not received my fall circular

No. 29 C, would be pleased it you would write for it

140 Wabash Avenue; SHICAGO

No. 91158. Autumn shaded

OAK SPRAY

Per dozen sprays. . . $ .76 Per gross sprays No. 91159. Oak Spray, com- posed of three of my regular 91158 sprays. Per dozen, $2.25

per gross, $22.50,

2

on

_ - i

< ae €:

oS ~ SOK

. . No. 91814. PALM PLANT 7 ( Unpotted)

No. In. high Leaves Each Doz. 91800 24 3 $ .18 $1.75 91805 46 4 25 © 2.50 91809 3 5 40 8 4.00 814 42 6 50 5.00 1818 42 7 65 6.50 oi 48 10 1.25 12.50 4 60 12 2.00 20.00

Autumn shaded, 12 leaves to yard.

A uazop 13g

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GIOI6 “ON

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Bu

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tad ' 90 1$ ‘spard uazop zag ‘9FOTE “ON

OUTA PTEAL

‘000IS ‘spared ssoad

‘puvd 0} SOARAT PapBYS uluN Ne ZI]

‘pavt 0} SOABOT ON

FOG ©

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£ uezop 10g

‘OUTA [[BQMouUg

ssord red {99 ‘es ‘spare

A

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00 '0gS ‘spar ZI pus sjjeqauous sodud ody ouy F

Per dozen

1599

PERFECT

CONSTRUCTION

IN BYERY DETAIL

HARD SPINDLES RUNNING IN N HARDENED STEEL

BUSHINGS

FULL NICKEL PLATE

BEWARE

OF IMITATIONS IN COMPARING PRICES WITH OTHER LATHES, LEARN THE 3 DIFFERENCE IN SIZE, “2 QUALITY AND DETAILS a ‘i OF CONSTRUCTION } oS Lathe, including Taper and Screw Chuck, \ e 6 Cement Chucks and belting . . $29.00 x Extra Wire and Wheel Chucks . . F -75 each \ ) A CHUCK MAY LOOK ALL RIGHT, YET BE ALL WRONG, x pe ( Our Chucks are made of the very best steel and absolute concentricity of ‘i i oe fy! cone, thread and hole is obtained by the most improved methods based upon 3 y years of experience. We use no Dies for the threads, but CUT THEM ON A X LATHE; nor do we file and polish the cone, body or hole, but GRIND them to \ a standard on special grinding machinery and guarantee perfection in every part. \WE CAUTION YOU AGAINST THE IMPERFECTIONS OF THE IMITATION Ne ar ee Mise varantce 3s packed _ 4 pY nf by our experience of 32 years FOR SALE BY ALL JOBBERS ) in building Lathes and the perfect IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA | methods used in their construction

‘TH E...t Roo ee

Beaded Label

French ,.eateh Glasses

The Crown Watch Glass

>

“CLEAR AND BRIGH®

AND LABELED RigaT”

CORRECT SHAT a AND

SUSSFELD, LorsH & Co.

Wholesale Agents PARIS NEW YORK

21 Rue de l’Echiquier 37 Maiden Lane

“8 ss 4

, % . be earns ROS ts Sy Oh Ge sRL Ie Sk J DN an ee eee i ng - : 3) ee

eS fe Ne

rl ie ye aaan —— - <> ~— - a Pa sas er ro ri af 0m om ES ae at art ee ee eee a ee es

I600

HARDINGE BROS., 1036 Lincoln Ave., Chicago, III.

MOSSO’S : MONARCH TEMPERING COMPOUND DALE CHUCKS—fFor all standard sizes watchmakers’ lathes 60 cents each. Every chuck guaranteed

INH TPP TET PTE

_ RES —

i “ili On all \

Do not 4 throw away your old tools. They can MEY 4 be made perfect by EC temmate wat treatment in this | m1 compound.

c Gili Anse bee att ae 1 ee

" HARDINGE!

| 9 il!

Full directions accompany each bottle This compound fills a long-felt want in the _ We have reached a proficiency in chuck manufacturing excelled by none. We are watchmakers’, jewelers’, engravers’ and dentists? selling more chucks now than ever before. Quality and price talk. Buy Dale Chucks, business. It has been used by large tool manufac- they are the best that money and experience can produce. turers for the past twenty years with great success, and we are now placing it upon the market in quantities suitable for watchmakers, jewelers, etc. An ordinary drill tempered in this compound will cut chilled cast iron, tempered steel or the enamel of a tooth. It will tempera lathe tool, hand tool or graver which will cut glass and still retain a keen, tough cutting edge and will not crumble or break on any kind of work. It makes all steel fully ) twice as good as when tempered in water, and with . it a result has been attained that has never before been possible. | It never evaporates or loses its strength. One bottle, if not wasted, will last a lifetime.

Price, per bottle, $1.00

HARDINGE BROS., Sole Distributors for United States and Canada Fitted to any lathe, Price, $30.00 With Trefoil Peep Holes, Price, $8.00

ARDINGE Bebe HOUGHTON FACE PLATE MFGD. BY HARDINGE BROS. ff

°4e y2 SIZE

\\\\ \\\\\\

donde

Jewelers’ Findings are made of the best grades only

cS ;

Balance Staffs and C. & F. Jewels are American=made and guaranteed to fit

3) ee

American | mt ° ° No.168. Balance Staffs, Hardened, Tempered and Mainspring’s Polished . . - No. 169. Balance Staffs, Hardened and Tempered, Gray Finish ; ‘ ; ‘ . 60 a“

. $1.00 per doz.

are guaranteed to be the most perfectly gaged and (m

best finished mainsprings No.170. C. & F. Jewels in Polished Settings, Ruby

| and Sapphire . ot P%s ; . $1.00 per doz. No.171. C. & F. Jewels in Turned Settings, Garnet. .50 “6

on the market.

er dozen, $1.00 P » > We send gratis a handsome cabinet and 12 bottles with 6 dozen _ of our best grade Reliance Brand Balance Staffs and Jewels. rs “ , iz With your first order for | NOTE ony ihe a Seige and the most up-to-date automatic machinery are used . ; : for making the Reliance Brand Balance Staffs and Jewels. All Balance Staffs and Jewel: one gross of our Reliance Brand are carefully examined as to their accuracy by experienced A ane Di pote eae = : , aot on the market. We will be only too pleased to exchange any Balance Staff or Jewel which x = Mainsprings we give you gratis pera ee find defective. No jeweler should be | : without our new ogue of a handsome oak or walnut 20 | Orders Filled from any Catalogue it vl eM Catalc BME | Jewelers’ Findings. You can

obtain one by sending us your

drawer Mainspring Cabinet. WE CARRY EVERYTHING KNOWN TO THE TRADE WRITE US FOR PRICES AND CASH DISCOUNT J business card,

KO RONES BROS Watches Watchmakers’ Optical : | niibos Sete Clocks Tools, Materials Goods | 32 Maiden Lane and Jobbers of and Jewelers’ and | 38 Chrystie Street, New York Jewelry — Supplies Silverware | 2 |

1601

We Carry a Complete Stock of Watches, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silver

and Plated Ware, Watchmakers’ Tools and Material Lathe Cone for Rings

a

SPRINGS

$ 1.00 per Dozen 10.50 per Gross

Height 3.

Co a EE:

Height 4.

7 IE TOE RTT TG TN TBE RTE

Height 5.

P SETLIST A a

Height 6.

EAT

Height 7.

§ .75 per Dozen 7.50 per Gross

(A Corporation)

tC

A Regent Mainspring Cabinet is given FREE with your first order for 1 gross Regent American Mainsprings

Height Ss. . Fac-Simile of Our Label

NOTICE—owing to the further advance in the prices of Watch Classes by European manufacturers, we have revised our prices to date as follows: Genevas . » » $ 7.20 per gross Thick Mi=Concavyes..... . Sis 2 L2c00" Se as Mi=Concaves, Extra Thick. 9.00 ‘ Parallels wh Wa

DOZEN LOTS AT SAME RATE

- - . « -» $3.60 per gross J 4 00 “é “é

Importers, Exporters and Manufacturers Watches, Diamonds, Jewelry, Silver-Plated Ware, Etc.

OF SOLID GRIT

3 { , Fos pen ac aa > KRESS “TERS aR EN Ot ‘ * wy ae ‘ 4 » PoP ov IN,

© : Ye et =" i: WA Sn Sse Ces BSBD gets ¥ 25) ss re ”

A desirable article for repairing. Is made of solid grit Has a metal

and will outwear thousands of paper shells. taper cone to fit on brush arbor.

In two grades—one to cut down solder, the other to

finish next to rouge.

Refuse metal can be removed in a few seconds with

ammonia and gold saved if desired.

Price per pair, 75 cents

I

Ml >. / Wi} }) Hh ) i UY yy Ip

yy Y

Uy Yj YY yy

yy

Patent Genevas... Eentitiés’ & ... « 5 j es PUIMEMOUICS) nie is «8 = S etete sec mee “6 PWSMECtES® os os 6 6 ewe 3.00 *

BLANK ORDER SHEETS SENT ON APPLICATION Discount, 6 per cent. off ORDERS FILLED FROM ANY CATALOGUE

Cross G Beguelin,

tn a

il

“PARALLEL.

a

LENTILLE.

ee ee

PATENT CENEVA.

EXTRA THICK MI-CONCAVE

| ee

THICK MI-CONCAVE,

MMU

r Dozen

r Gross

$ .75 per Dozen 7.50 per Gross

17 Maiden Lane, New York

oO —_-™

BLOC

BUFFALO, N. Y.

IN

1602

The Southern Jeweler who wants satisfactory values and prompt shipments should remember

Ol lt I ON eel el el el ll all al dl alll el atl al

that that—

Baltimore being the é- as we sell the Jewelry natural distributing VEWELPY rf JEWELLE: Trade only we are point for the South able to anticipate your

WATCHES and DIAMONDS saves you from twenty- needs and to fill your

four to forty-eight Baltimore, Md. orders with absolute

hours on your orders. 2 East Lexington St., cor. Charles correctness.

Selection packages sent upon request er ee

ESTABLISHED 40 YEARS

Watch Case Making, Repairing Remodeling and Reconstructing

OUR SPECIALTY—Changing old Antique Cases to Stemwind

Engraving and Engine-Turning. Gold and Silver Plating. Satin-Finishing and Polishing

SEND FOR PRICE-LIST MINIATURE PORTRAITS DEMAGNETIZING

N. J. FELIX, 18 John st., NEW YORK CITY

-_—— _—*

High-grade complete screw-cut=- ting engine lathes, 9 and 11-inch swing, with automatic cross-feed, with or without compound ee

an

\ \ at ; a +] = N PJ BUF e ————s ae ° “115 y y 4+} Coe LL oO (ase draw-in chuck, taper, milling

: ’ f ES vy, aN 41) Ae DE >} CE es 99 Foot and | ae w a Cs A ‘ wy > r — : t 2: 3 Con o D (Fe = Sy ie ~ = = rs Po cr > aale hy ; tee id , 4; ye a 7 .

countershaft, metric lead-screw, etc.

ELKS’ BUTTON ELKS’ BUTTON Sees = ; aa = < gear-cutting attachments, friction

(Front.) Pat’d. Ora, | 5249 Sterling Silver and Gold-Plated a i

I do all kinds of work for the trade. Workmanship the very best, and _ satisfaction guaranteed,

AM he

cision service. Send for Catalog ‘‘ B.’’

TIGER CLAW RING

Side View MONKEY RING Heavy Engine Lathes.

Solid Silver, Oxidized The Seneca Falls Mfg. Co.

Ikko Matsumoto Manufacturing Jeweler | . I : ] = 2 = < B : 246 Water Street

rm

Suitable for tool, model, and scien- tific instrument makers, optical, lab- oratory and experimental work, for profitable use in all lines of fine, accurate manufacturing and pre-

We also make Bench Lathes, Speed Lathes, Wood Lathes and

$e8K

Rooms I, 2 and 3, 17% S. Meridian St. Indianapolis, Ind. : SENECA FALLS, N.Y., U.S.A.

Se oo a = © ux gy =, « umou te ce ye eee ee > 6 CN pe a ae ‘= a OO © = vu yes s o = cw 2am™nNes a5 bcos! 5 n od ei fy ers rs SC Lowe ioe es c+ = of mh \Z = “0D “a mss v = Oo DH ° . v & s) -— — wo = Sp = tH = sc S & LLY q = § »« oes S ie - + & 8 5 «D) — S oso 7 Qu. 3h ot FQ. - ea) x, eres Ot «= a 25 = =m - S Ss ~ oO ee = — 9 ro) + = & S 80-55 "aso 2 care [Ly ad =: , £88. 3080” oa 6 > fm f= = Leena ee eu ee Ds < : 2M € & me “se Ww Og Oo mo °° set a nS S q' = Ss OFA +S “ys & os ~ Ne. oo woe e 5 . = ne ° S| mg es: P oe eet oS eo 3a = ye D7 SN a 2 gaa 2 a SY 4 MSS ap © Y oe CMNews VY Spot + 2 See DO Ss & 21” So) Oe 7 8 ee TO see oy 7 oO eee 26. lek eee mS 58 Y) = 3 Seu: @ 5 a Ga a. Oo Ww ee)

Nineteen Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

A LITTLE ARGUMENT =

;

CC Nie ARR \ “ AA . ‘i WK Ny RAN 7 Sy ~~ CEN SN

FILES? Yes, but—

“Only the best are good enough ”—for—

TOOL MAKERS, JEWELERS, WATCH and WATCH CASE MANUFACTURERS, Ete Ever tried “‘ AMERICAN SWISS ”—No ?—

Then kindly send for Price-List and Samples.

No charge for Files used in trying them.

We offer to pay the freight on Sample order both ways, it you wish (because they never come back). KIND? Swiss Patterns, all shapes and cuts. Sizes up to 12”.

OUALITY? A trial will tell.

PRICES? Lower than imported—higher than any other “made in U.S.”

MADE WHERE ?—Elizabeth, N. J., U.S.A.

BY WHOM? American Swiss File & Tool Co,

Enufsed ?

OH! DELIVERY ?—Prompt by

He. REICHHE LM Q3e€Oe 2%. John SereetINiews Y ork

We Blank Form Swedge

()ur finish finest for

PLATINUM

Special Sheet and Wire for Jewelers Seamless Tubing

the money

iy a) WY VB Submit sample for <j WW, ' ¥ gw e No Sa ice our price

A.N. Clark & Son, Plainville, Conn.

Platinum Scrap Bought

at

Highest Price

BELAIS & COHN

Metallurgists is Dutch Se NEW YORK

ORDER FROM YOUR JOBBER

PRICES:

For Direct Current, $15.00 For Alternating “‘ 5.00

Agents for England: GRIMSHAW & BAXTER, 29 Goswell Road, London, carry stock

THE KNOBLOCK=HEIDEMAN MFG. COMPANY

Successors to THE MILLER-KNOBLOCK ELECTRIC MFC. COMPANY South Bend, Indiana

Our Fine Gray Cheviot Paper Boxes

Most Popu

Nest Boxes,

€ Nest

cc

‘ec

sizes 3to6. . sizes 7tog . for baby rings small size . . medium size . large

Phinple Boxes . . i. .°. G PEt SpOOnS, + «4 aos

per gr

ec

‘<

No charge for printing name and address

‘

ce

cc

é

ce

Plain

OSS $2.50 ‘

3.00 3-25

Jewelers’ Building, 134-138 Wabash Avenue

Established 1870

lar——Attractive—Rich Lookine

Cc

Swartchild & Company

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF

Watchmakers’, Jewelers’ and Engravers’ Supplies CHICAGO

Our 700-page catalogue sent free on application

Covered with Gray Cheviot Paper of Medium Shade, with White Border, Telescope Style

MEDI“M Fr /ING

No. No. No. No. No. No. No. No.

K 92. K 93. K 94.

r oa

WANA

1Te¢ea Spoon...

1 Coffee Spoon

I Dessert Spoon .

6 ‘<¢

Spoons

1 Table Spoon .

6 se

Scarf Pin

Spoons Hat Pin, extra long

.

.

_

VIL ITINIS

si 2 s » » DEP Shoes S225 46 ia) by

‘¢

SEND FOR SAMPLES OF OUR EMBOSSED BOXES

‘

Plain

. ~ > —_ ~~

1

Om ~ + ©

DN ANG & S ©

oa —

NW NOs U1 ww

Embossed $4.25 4.00 4.75

5-75

7.00 7-50

4.75 3-25

ombined Lathe

REPLACING 12 ATTACHMENTS including the two shown

Clement

Did you ever find a wheel that was not free in its pinion? This attachment will fix those wheels P. D. Q.

Did you ever find rusty pinions in your watches ? And did you ever try to poiish them out by hand? Can you imagine how nice it would be to have a machine that would do the work in one-tenth of the time

watches ? might do work of that kind ?

work exactly.

Shown above as ROUNDING=UP FIXTURE

Does the regular work of the reunding.

: trictl up tools. $40.00 strictly net

If its use is not fully understood, please write for further information; we are always pleased to give it,

and ten times better? This does it,

Did you ever see the nicely polished staffs and pinions of the highest grade Swiss Did you not w.sh that you By use of this attachment you can dupiicate that

Complete in every detail

W. D. CLEMENT, Waltham, Mass.

Shown above as the RUSTY PINION POLISHER

For polishing new or rusty pinions. Not necessary to remove the wheel. It works like a charm,

Is entirely new.

Stroke fully adjustable.

Set of 12 polishers furnished to fit the different sizes of pinions.

Exceptionally Good Jewelry Repairing

stone-setting and special order work is what we are equipped for in our new department.

Many words of appreciation of its work have reached us from customers and we would be pleased to add you to the number of our well-satisfied patrons.

We have everything in personnel, machinery and ample stock of material, to turn out the very best work promptly. Let us send you our price-list.

Ezra F. Bowman’s Sons Lancaster, Pa.

PLAIN FACTS

We have been engaged in the manufacture of watchmakers workbenches for almost a quarter of a century. We are the originators of the modern bench and know a thing or two about them.

Our benches are made of different kinds of wood, such as Mahogany, Walnut, Quarter-sawed Oak, Plain Oak, Birch and Ash. They are honestly and well made in every detail and of the best seasoned and kiln-dried lumber. We finish them in any shade of color desired. We ship our benches to every State in the Union and to foreign countries as well.

Besides benches we make Watch Repair Cases Jewelry Repair Cases, Material Cabinets, Material Cases, Glass Cabinets, Mainspring Cabinets, Optical Cabinets, Lens Cabinets, ete. We make to order special benches and woodenware of every descrip- 7 tion that an up-to-date watchmaker needs.

WATCHMAKERS AND JEWELERS Send for our new illustrated catalogue and order what you want through your Jobber. Insist upon getting our make. Our name-plate is on every article we make. Almost all Jobbers handle our goods,

JESSEN & ROSBERG, 397 to 405 w. Kinzie st, Chicago

Our Latest Flat-Top Bench, No. 8

Made in Walnut, Quarter-sawed Oak, Plain Oak and Birch

Get it To-Day »

Did You Get 7=F | Ke) A»

That Bottle o TRADE MARKG=——_|

It makes your Hard Soldering Easy. whole lot to the Jeweler,

’

Never ‘‘balls up,’’ which means a It saves a lot of time and maybe wicked words.

FREE! FREE?!

You get a large piece of E-Z-Floe Silver Solder free with every bottle. These Reliable Jobbers handle it ;

Otto Young & Co., Chicago, III. Henry Paulson & Co., Chicago, III. A. Hirsch & Co., Chicago, Ill.

F. W. H. Schmidt, Chicago, III.

A. C. Becken, Chicago, III.

Calvin Clauer Co., Chicago, Ill.

Lindner & Co., Cincinnati, Ohio Jos. Mehmert, Cincinnati, Ohio O. H. Bingenheimer, Milwaukee, Wis. Reed=-Bennett Co., Minneapolis, Minn. S. H. Clausin & Co., Minneapolis, Minn. , Pelot Haroldson & Co., Los Angeles, Cal. Henry Zimmern & Co., New York City Leonard Krower, New Orleans, La. L. H. Keller & Co., New York City W.P. Ellis & Co., Toronto, Can.

Sischo & Beard, St. Paul, Minn.

Write for our free book ‘‘ How to Hard Solder.”’

F=Z-FLOE CHEMICAL CO.

Globe Bidg.. St. Paul, Minn.

TIDD’S BALANCE STAFFS

are made of Stubbs steel, finely tem-

pered, accurately sized. Every staff is

guaranteed to fit, finish equal to any made, made in two qualities, viz:

Gray finish body, polished pivots = = = $1.00 doz. Highly polished for high-grade movements, 1.25 Ǥ

Single staffs matched, 15c. each. Try a sample dozen.

TIDD & CO., Columbiana, OHIO

Our Catalogue Is Made to Buy From

It is not the “biggest” Jewelry Catalogue in print, for we have aimed at compactness and the listing of absolutely new goods, so that our new catalogue would suit the busy, up-to-date jeweler. We have tried to keep it as small as possible and still show the biggest line

of eoods.

It is the most concise and best illustrated catalogue gotten up by

an American wholesale jewelry house. Ife quotes but one price and that is the lowest.

All of our goods and our only prices are there before you in plain black and white. Every item is illustrated and all the facts about it are given.

We believe every progressive jeweler in the Central West and Southern territory to be a possible customer of ours, and feel confident that he will buy of us sooner or later. The best we can do is to talk to him through our Catalogue; the best he can do is to consider what

we have to say.

Get our new Catalogue. It will be sent out to the trade about the latter part of October. If your name is not on our mailing list, it should be. Should you not receive our new book by October 25th, write for it.

Get our new Catalogue, which is free to all regular jewelers for the asking. Use its goods and hints for more business now. And from the holiday goods it displays choose the goods for easy business

in Lecember.

ALBERT BROTHERS

The Quick Delivery House

CINCINNATI, OHIO

ea tee

efe'e's a

vere?

wie

PRACTICAL UP-TO-DATE TOOLS

re j [ my THE LIGHTNING eee

PIVOT POLISHER AND GRINDER

to the counter shaft in a moments time. It has two bell metal laps, straight and one conical.

Lee tool can be attached

It needs no adjusting and ‘ cae so simple, any one can operate For grinding, use oil ston powder and oil. oe For polishing, use diamantine A SS and oil.

Hh: &Curio Dealers Use; © Price 25ctTs : Non bebe tive il

| / i i a i uy i

ann a Hungarian Transparent Cement

——_—_—____

iH

—:!” —! —- SS a f =

UT

WNT

i

il

Especially adapted for cement- ing % Pearls, also used for Watch

Glasses when size is a little small.

The Lightning Pivot Polisher and Grinder

No watchmaker should be without thistool. Asalabor saving device it has no equal

PRICE EACH $2.50 PER BOTTLE 25 CENTS.

ie “ Perfection ” Soldering Block ast

This is the only Asbes- tos Soldering Block that work can be pinned on, _as it takes pins readily, and will outlast dozens of charcoal blocks.

oat

Price, with 1 doz. Pins 5Oc.

IER + rae i

il TT

The Perfect Movement Holder

HIS movement holder has three compartments and is

just the thing for the work your MAIL ORDERS ARE WHAT WE ARE AFTER

bench. Oftimes when the watch-

maker takes a movement apart, he We are accurate and quick. Orders filled from any catalogue. finds some part broken which it will All orders filled the same day as received. Our catalogue is free for the asking,

be necessary for him to send for. This movement holder will hold three movements and is covered

fort ages ee oot 0S, AG

Price, 60 cents each 11 West Fifth Street, CINCINNATI, OHIO

Material Dealers can obtain the above tools from

HAMMEL, RIGLANDER & CO., New York, or direct from us

1608

A Profitable Side Line

FOR JEWELERS

In any city, town or village, a good business can be quickly developed in the world-renowed Edison Phonograph. Extensive advertising and

continuous improvement have made the

Improved Edison Phonograph and Gold Moulded Records

so popular that good profits await the jeweler who prepares to meet the increasing demand. As every dealer must sell at the retail list price, there is no price-cutting, and his sales yield a gross profit of 6674 cents on every dollar invested. We want a dealer in every town to develop new business and to sell those who answer our advertisements.

Start now while the business is heaviest. Write for full information on your business letter-head.

NATIONAL PHONOGRAPH CO., 55 Lakeside Ave., Orange, N. J.

i © —— » ——— 5 ——_ + —— + ——__ o *~—__- « -—_ 0 — — 0

i | ye i RTT TT III F IAAI LA TIOTL AI LATL AIL ATLAS IAI LAT IAT LAI SIESTA ATP ATLA TITLE IATL AIL AIL AIOE SISA ATION IOS OS at ot at poate

———_— oe —__— 9 —__"¢ — §——_— _¢ ~~ 6 ¢

Elgin, Waltham and N. Y. Standard Movements

Being advantageously Ps

’ located for the Southern

trade, we solicit your ix

Keystone, Boss, Ly orders, and guarante le

Crescent, Crown and Tinporter and ; Rs > ge lS Royal Cases every Satisfaction regard- a ; : as ee

ice SMorLaoias Ulbolesale Dealer ing prices and qualities. Optical Goods Special attention paid |» Tools and Materials Li Nortla Claarles. Street to mail orders, and i for Watchmakers ° he al SOME Baltimore, Md. CHADS ONL, EPSRC ot cheerfully sent. a

*

r4

“

x‘ Bad te raed td 1 "O62 a ¥ aaa re gd a ga ty shy ut “tye

*—, . «——_e— e —— e——__ + —___-e . —_ ——— . . o——e —e* . ‘ . , . o——e ‘ o——e —e— ~* -* e-- . o—_ 9 —. »———_ » ——__ » ————- ¢ ——-—_ » ———_ 5 ———— 5 ————_ » —— — 9 ———_ 2 ~-———_ 9 ——— he 4% AA® AK AAK 74 “al Sas ALK FAK ALK A4* AA ALY ALY FAK Z 4% FA® AA 5 ALK AK ALK 4® A4™ AA A4® ALY ALAR KARR ALY ALY AA ALK ALK ALY FOAM FAX FAK ALY AAK ALK AK $% 4™. 4 AAR ALK AAR AG K

Gold aa Silver REFINERS, ASSAYERS a

Se ==

Ha f

an SWEEP SMELTERS

Kote

ia ELL ; .

ati Prompt attention given to

ye BULLION SOLICITED Old Gold and Silver forwarded to us SMELTING FOR by mail or express + ee th 1 th lisz | THE TRADE Southwest Corner se SWEEPINGS |

OUR SPECIALTY __ Newark, N. J.

1609

Radical Reduction

YEAR-LONG CLOCKS

$8.90 Net Cash, f. 0. b. Philadelphia

J.B. BECHTEL & CO.

PHILADELPHIA

725 Sansom Street

“WINTER QUALITY” Jewelry Store Fixtures In the Good Old Harvest Days

The Best at Right Prices from $3 00.00 up —— EN ee > 7 | | iN SE Ny i fea Ls

A **WINTER’’ QUALITY CASE

; : The Finest and Most Complete Book ER, epi of its Kind Ever Issued. int jor “ {6 Plans, interior views, new suggestions, yC E separate fixtures, cases, counters, floor cases, yO soda fountain fixtures. Illustrated fully, described and listed in so plain a manner that you can make your

own plans and estimate the cost of your

ES } ; we Sor pu tines fixtures. “y c OR

Sent postpaid on receipt of 25 cents

c, ALY 41 tii, ty ” ss.

iii mana, hal oo

THE LINE OF QUALITY. Not how cheap, not how much, but how good. At prices : that are right. Ask our customers. Anything from a store stool to the most complete Jewelers’ Findings College Seals and Flag Pins ) > '

outfit. : M. WINTER LUMBER CO., sheboygan, wis. SPECIAL EMBLEMS of every description.

Established 1865 The High-Grade Fixture Makers

Finlay-Dicks & Co., New Orleans, La., Sales Agents for Louisiana, ' Mississippi and Alabama. | C. D. Smith Drug Co., St. Joseph, Mo., Sales Agents for Missouri, Kan- sas, Nebraska, Oklahoma Territory and Indian Territory.

F. H. NOBLE & CO.

R. H. Birdsall, Room 7, Hamilton Bldg., Portland, Oregon, Sales Agent WAS ioe for Washington and Oregon. Dee = y=: DNAX = ‘

Texas Drug Company, Dallas, Texas, Sales Agents for Northern Texas, , AOE 50th and Wallace Streets Southern Oklahoma and Indian Territory, % Y Ae SALESROOMS

Chicago—103 State St. CHICAGO, Lee

New York—51=53 Maiden Lane

Have You Seen Our Auxiliary Caselets ?

GEO KUEHIA& CO, MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF

Céencme Black Forest

CU CK OOS Gale@ Cik-s

Jewelers! If you ord€r Cuckoo Clocks, order therm, with the. 2 245.4

They are the BEST. There are none BETTER

Our clocks have received the highest award, ‘‘ Gold Medal,’’ at the Chicago, Omaha, Paris and St. Louis Expositions

For sale at all Wholesale Clock and Jewelry Houses

Lathes and Attachments

The Rivett Universal Head is made with a spindle just like that in the regular Rivett Lathe head, of the very best tool steel, hardened and ground, by a machine especially made for this work. The pump- center 1s fitted with a light spring, and the solid nickel face-plate has three peep-holes, which makes it easy for the see erm to see around the pump-center to examine his work. It is considered by all who have used it to be. a oreat improvement over all others.

In our Patent Jaws we do away with ae spiral spring. The thumb screw ts grooved and runs ina T-slot in the ayers a thedower jaw, which enables it to be thrown in and out without any trouble. The lower jaw can be bound to any position on the plate with the thumb nut in the center of the jaw, which holds it ae and steady. This will be found of great advantage when it 1s necessary to take out and replace the watch- plate a een bes of times.

Ask your dealer for Rivett Tools, or just address, Rivett Lathe, Brighton, Boston, Mass., U.S.A.

am TREN The Se Hold-On > Clutch

*6

Per Dozen

HOOPS

The Object of Our Instruction

is to produce competent workmen without loss of time.

in solid gold and in superior quality

gold filled,

the celebrated “Sturdy” Simmons” makes.

We receive many letters asking whether a student who comes here with some previous experience is required to go over the entire course. Our reply is, that

because we teach individually, it is not necessary for Price according to

the student to go over ground which he has already idan ae covered, but we always test him to learn whether he has learned proper methods of doing what he already can do, and we generally find that we can show him

better or quicker ways of accomplishing some of the

The best of all safety

devices Samples cheerfully submitted

operations he has been doing, and we can correct such

deficiencies In a very short time. Then he is ready ee 1 at: Stevan, 1 ‘7

to advance into new and _ higher subjects with the see : ; one Pe fe Chicago >

assurance that he is building a per ec

g on a perfectly sound ee 405 Masonic Temple foundation. Our pleasure is to impart the knowledge Hee 2 i RS ELAND RY 47-49 Maiden Lane which can be converted unceasinely j ‘as Bs gages ed unceasingly into hard cash. ices Welded Vue New York

Send for our catalogue, which is full of new ideas.

The Ezra F. Bowman _ | WATCH REPAIRING for the Trade T h ‘ i S h as **T have had my extra watch work done by ec nica Cc OO Pe a number of ‘watchmakers for the trade’ with soe indifferent success until you were recommended W i. ( raft I rt Hee to me, since which time I have found your w rk ‘ * of Watchmaking and Engraving seit as near perfect as it is possible to make it.”’ W.E

LANCASTER, PA. Z June 6, 1905. Soce Gb Ohio. 210 Pearl St., Buffalo, N. Y.

When writing to advertisers, kindly mention The Keystone

1611

Ou ELECTRIC POLISHING HEADS represent the

highest development in the operation of such apparatus, and embody all the essential

features necessary for strictly high-grade, efficient, and durable machines.

develop full power as indicated.

They will

If you have the electric current on your premises,

let us know whether it is direct or alternating and the number of voltage.

Send for latest catalogues and bulletins

W. W. Oliver Manufacturing Co: Manufacturers 1490-1492 Niagara St. BUFFALO, N. Y., U.S.A.

H HY \

|. jst _ a) ong ii : { aaah

a

Polishing Plating Coloring

The above illustration shows the No. 9 Dynamo connected with a Type ‘‘A”’ 1=5 H. P. Electric Polishing Motor made by the W. W. OLIVER MFG. CO., Buffalo, N. Y. (Descriptive price circulars on application. )

The Rheostat (illustrated in the upper left-hand corner) is used in connection with the No. 9 Dynamo to regulate the current that any required amount may be allowed to flow through the tank. (Price, $1.00.)

Prompt attention given to applications for price circulars and othe: information regarding Electric Polishing Motors, No. 9 Dynamo, K. & D. Rheostat, Plating Tanks, ete. Address,

KENDRICK & DAVIS, Lebanon, N. H. W. W. OLIVER MFG. CO., Buffalo, N. Y. or

N’ 9 DYNAMO sg.00

Manufactured by KENDRICK & DAVIS, Lebanon, N H.

A shunt-wound and very powerful little Dynamo which can be oper- ated from any convenient source of power. Asa Plating Dynamo it has every advantage over primary batteries ; this arrangement does away with the renewal of elements and solution, besides having the strength to operate a 5-gallon bath successfully.

Speed, 2200 R. P. M. 9 pounds.

Volts, 2. Size, 6x4%x6. Weight,

Its design and construction embody the best practice common to the larger machines in general use.

The Field is of the ring type cast solid with the frame.

The Coils are form wound and taped, and are safe from mechanical injury or breakdown.

The Armature is laminated and slot wound, which prevents its heating.

The Commutator is of hard copper and sparkless.

The Brush Holders are of ‘new design, and add greatly to the efficiency of the machine.

The Brush Holder Yoke is adjustable; an advantage in regulating and operating.

The Bearings are of hard bronze, nicely fitted.

Only the Best Material is used in its construction; the Dynamo being finished in black enamel and furnished with 1%4’’ grooved or flat pulley as desired.

At Speed of 2200 it generates 6 amperes and 2 volts, an output of 18 watts.

SUSSFELD, LORSGH GCG tetatgae °7 GADEN LANE

in)

Sas eS ee = ge NER CHI.

The Great Central Market for Jewelry and Optical Goods

The foremost market in America, for the distribution of Watches, Diamonds, Jewelry and Optical Goods. ‘The best place for you to buy your fall bills

Excursion Rates and Dates of the Chicago Commercial Association will be found on the opposite page

JOHN H. HARDIN, General Secretary, oth Floor Great Northern Building, 77 Jackson Boulevard, CHICAGO

We are members of the Chicago Commercial Association. Write us for additional particulars

OTTO YOUNG & COMPANY BENJ. ALLEN & COMPANY F. A. HARDY & COMPANY NORRIS, ALISTER & CO. H. F. HAHN & COMPANY JUERGENS & ANDERSEN CO.

Pl

«* ¢ * « gS A * . gee gate et at atl ve * . ¥ ‘ *

« * ’ . Pi * * GRE tn: WG™ P) ae) Ser) “ Ys mr * ** . at * . ’ * “as ‘

¥

* o*

.

a$ «*

ote get gt! oat ee OS the ee ae

” a«*

y, 4

CHICAGO THE GREAT CENTRAL MARKET REDUCED during the months of JULY, AUGUST, SEPTEMBER and OCTOBER FAR E. to the Great Western Metropolis and return, in connection with the : | FALL MEETINGS, 1905, or

THE CHICAGO COMMERCIAL ASSOCIATION

At CHICAGO

G The following reduced railroad rates to Chicago are now in force for Merchants’ Meetings

Western Passenger Association Territory—Rates of one and one-fifth for round trip on certificate plan have been granted as follows

Dates of Meetings Dates of Sale Return Limit Ist Meeting, July 190-26. 5 3. . ao 4 2 & Go aluly 15-22". 3 2 ew we a ss vs. « & July 19—Augusts 2d; Meeting, August: 9-16 -. > 0a et. = 4 2 UsUSt SIS 3 Se ew GS ew ws « ASUSt 9-22 3d Meeting, August 23-30 ......... .August 19-26 ........ . . August 23-September 5 4th Meeting, September 6-13 ...... ... .September 2-9... . September 6-19

5th Meeting, November I-8.. . 2 « « « w » October 28-November 4 . . . November I-I4

Centeral Passenger Association Territory—Rates of one and one-third fare for round trip on certificate plan have been granted as follows

Dates of Meetings Dates of Sale Return Limit Ist; Meeting;. August 9-16 « 395 & 4s 5 «43 5 aAugust:§—Il .. ...4... « « «August 9-19 2d Meeting, August 23-30 ........ .. .August 19-25......... .. .August 23-September 2 3d Meeting, September 6-13... ...... .September 2-8. ....... . . September 6-16 4th Meeting, November I-8....... ... . October 28-November . . . . . November I-II

Illinois Central Territory Points South of Ohio River—Commencing June rst and continuing until Sep- tember 30th, aid bearing final return limit of October 31st, the following rates from basing points will obtain

Martin, Tenn. ..... . . . $19.50 Holly Springs, Miss. . .. . . $24.90 Vicksburg, Miss. . .... . . $26.10

Jackson, Tent. . . <« % 2 = «= 2875 Winona; Missa ee 6 Ged x a2, 25:85 Baton Rouge, La. ..... . 33.00

Memphis, Tenn: . 6.4 « « « + 23:40 Greenville, Miss. . ..... . 26.10 New Orleans, La... ... . . 33.00 jackson; Miss: 2 3 4 se + « « 25.35

The rates above are slightly in excess of one and one-third fare for round trip

Make our stores your headquarters when you come to town. We are at your service

C,H. KNIGHTS & COMPANY STEIN & ELLBOGEN COMPANY SPROFHNLE & COMPANY M.S. FLEISHMAN COMPANY

SWARICHILD & CO. M. A. MEAD & COMPANY

1613

1614

Umbrella Extension

Extension and Tie Clasp made in Gold and Sterling Silyer to match the Handle

Mr. Jeweler: Tie Clasp

See that the umbrellas you buy this fall have the new Braitsch Specialties, “Tip Cups,” “Tie Clasps’’ and ‘“‘ Umbrella Extensions,” illustrated herewith. They are the latest and best accessories now on the market. If your umbrella maker cannot supply you, write us. Our trade-mark, ‘“ W. J. B. & Co.,” on all our goods.

Established 1887 W. J : BRAITSCH & A), 396-8 Broadway, New York

United States Smelting and Refining Works The Matchless Le. & M. W : : ; Office: 16 John ST ELS Si Pocket Cigar Lighter

Telephone, 5644 Cortlandt Works: Ky John St; New York The only perfected cigar lighter on the market Made in Gun Metal, Aluminum, Brass, Silver Plate Sweep Smelters and Assayers disid Plate and coudcoia

Refiners of all kinds of Gold, Silver, Platinum, Waste Manufacturers of Sterling Silver

Highest BP tan anion hasace ey Scraps The Matchless Cigar Lighter Manufacturing Co.

Office and Salesroom

16 John St., New York, N. Y.

WEBSTER’S ADJUSTABLE SOLDERING BLOCK

(Patented Dee. 3, 1903) It Willi Save You Time and Trouble

Write for Prices

Proprietor of Platina Melting Furnace and Gold and Platina | Filing Separating Process of greatest advantage to manufacturers __ of Platina Jewelry

No pins or binding wire necessary. Holds spectacle frames, rimless bridges, hat pins, stick pins, cuif buttons, rings, studs and many odd jobs of jeweiry repairing.

This block is not an experiment, it has been successfully used for the past two vears. When I say that it will do your work quicker and better than any other adjustable soldering device on the market, lam telling nothing but the truth. Don’t take my word for it, | am prejudiced, try one your- self for thirty days, and if not found perfectly satisfactory I will return your money.

If your jobber does not have them I will send by mail upon receipt of price and 10 cents postage.

HN et ck Be Price with Pads for Holding Spectacle ‘3 NE Sareea wees cee — ~a — HAMes:). . ieee oP eIeee 6 css $1.75 dicen’ eda Were Rae DECKER TES Price complete with both the Spectacle LEADING WiTH Him LAUGHING WarerR aud Jewelry Pads 4. \.:> Gua 2.00

HAND IN HAND THEY WENT TOGETHER

THROUGH THE WOODLAND AND THE MEADOW ARTHUR R. WEBSTER, Milford, N. H.

HIAWATHAS WOOING

| LUNULALLSUA EUS. AdLL)

. 3 a

Os

- MAMMOTH WHOLESALE JEWELERS — — OF AMERICA ~—

The Strongest Cement

yet discovered—much superior to Shellac or

Hand in hand we’ll go together, __ im other gum or gelatine cements. ROMA S WAS SUCCES AU DLOSpetity:. 7; ¥ It has no equal for fixing Pallet Stones and Roller re Pins, making a much stronger and cleaner job than 3% 4 shellac. It is quite transparent, and will successfully , PRK] ha exe : seca repair Broken Cut Glass, China, ete. The same proper- Our 1906 Catalog w ill be ready for (a aig ee ties make it invaluable for setting fine Pearls. It pen = ae eee . T ‘ ~ wee gs lis rants te fix a slack Watch Glass so that dirt cannot wor distribution November 1, 1905 sepa SM rica: the berel, and do anc -ctheeten-wheren ater. wt fg clean cement is required. a : d we Pu Ligcbs A Sold by every material dealer in America Meanwhile oe roe you Z0eL apis Prices ees our 1905 Catalogs TET ae a eS a ae SUSSFELD, LORSCH & CO.

Wholesale Distributing Agents 413 Elm Street pair sh ae Oe

skamp, Nolting & Coz Cincinnati, Ohio > ie aman 37 Maiden Lane, New York

1615

MEGA mMoveMENTS

ARE FINE TIMEPIECES

All made with Lever Escapements and Double Roller Pendant Set Fitting American Cases

Made in 6 Different Grades

10 Ligne, 1 Ligne, O Size, 12 Size, 16 Size

From 7 Jewels to 21 Jewels, Adjusted to heat and cold, and 5 positions

SOLD ONLY TO LEGITIMATE JEWELERS PRICES NOT ADVERTISED IN ANY JOURNAL

A TRIAL WILL CONVINCE YOU OF THEIR MERITS SEND FOR PRICE-LIST EDMOND E. ROBERT | seuss { CROSS & BEGUELIN 3 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK 17 Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

Suitable for the Jewelry Trade, consisting of Real Lace, Hand- Painted and Richly Spangled Gauze Fans mounted on Ebony, See Ivory, Pearl and Bone S?AG eee Mountings. ta,

NOVE LT! ES IN “AN S Oe

and its alloys, made expressly for jewelers’ use

GRAND PRIZE, UNIVERSAL EXPOSITION OSTRICH FEATHER FANS St. Louis, 1904

Mounted in Pearl or Tortoise Shell rarde Mountings. All prices amatded

IGNAZ sTRAUSS & CO.]] BAKER AND CO., INC.

Manufacturers

Repair Department

BO Bone ; 120 Liberty St. Be EX (Ss Up nee 62x Broadway NEY Boe slaeNewatic. No J Nev 9

Factories at Vienna, Paris, Kobe, New Y ork

YOU USE GOLD ALLOY WE MAKE SHOT COPPER

AMERICAN OIL & SUPPLY CO. 23=27 Division Place, NEWARK, N. J.

New York City

Importers of FLessian Sand Crucibles. peaters in Exverything for the Manufacturing Jeweler

GET ACQUAINTED WITH US. SEND FOR CATALOGUE

It’s Because of the Volume of Business <xs:

that we are enabled to sell goods on narrow margins, net cash. It will pay you to get in touch with uy TRY IT HERE.

All Sizes, Measure by Shapes and Styles Ta Lengths

of Crosses Wi Hi

LT TTT HTT ATAU ATT TT WHA | Nata aenne ‘| ||| cae §

We Carry in Stock all Styles of Lockets. Reduced Prices

HTH Wii); A,

Hil} iil) Hi} Wii} I h yy M)) I}

No, #958 No. 5931 No. 5917 No, 5917144 No, 5955 : No. 5941 Nos. 5958 and 5917 No. 5955 No, 5931

White Stone or Pearls, Roman, Gold Filled. Heavy Solid Gold Plain or Engraved

Set in Silver, Roman 10 year, RP lront and Back, Solid Gold Front, 4301 gold sides and back, lin., $ .40 $ .30 Warranted 25 yrs. Lin., $.35 10 K. solid gold, $5.25. ........ 4, tus RIO ‘Ceperanes ee na OD BD 1% 1n., $..66 379 ily 986 ly a a AN ee ee gm x 8 6 Ls In., “vy 1% INl., AY 40 IM 1n., 253 24% Tis 99 ZOeCreu riled: < s: DBR ns ean eee 8% ; a @1ll., 99 2 in,, 79 50 2 in., 95 Solid Gold, 19 «+ 6 CREME ge es. “60 : 2%e1n., 1.12 2% in., 88 60 2144 in., 1.06 154 in., $1.85 d10,, 1.00 76 2i0., 1.65

CUT OUT THIS PACE

for reference

We have a complete line of all the latest styles of Hat Pins, Solid Gold, Gold Filled, Signets and Fancy Patterns bY H one from 19¢. to $1.85. é (Order a selection.)

No. 4051. 1 dozen, assorted as shown, $1.85. Sterling Silver Tops, warranted and stamped. (Average

price, IIc.) Retail for 50c. each

110 10-year Solid Gold. billed Filled

22in. 15in; 18im. 22in. 22 in.

gl ee le ae, an saroar hte Oram me a o . ‘ f . fh ome Va Jase ke SHELLED DOTA y. 07. $3.45 $2.50 £2.00 £1.06 $.75 ey

1.85 1.20 1,08 0 60

ie

We carry all styles of BEADS

Illustration shows small size No. 5; the

DBE TEI ID LLL LD ILE GLEE LE IL ELLIE LLL LIL LL N 0, 2

s Z 6 iS y se ~I ee |

largest size No. 14.

epee: 2788. 5:10 8,75 2.70 185 1.66

Gola Filled. 10 year, SETA LEAL, (LL DDI DED Sa LLY LPL ILEDELOLLSS SSSI No, 2729. 2.50 1.70 1.30 1.06 75

Solid Gold Stamped W. G. C, Gold-Plated

ee Ree v1.20 $ .60 No. 9828 °

Not. Bano "40 60 We carry the largest line of No. 8. 6.00 1.5 6 » .

No.9 7.00 1,60 75 ' Combs in Chicago

No. 10, 7.50 1.70 ass i mi

era iD 10 | Shell, Amber and New Pearl Gray

(>

PEARL BEADS j

Fine Cream, extra luster, 14 in. Size 8, 90c. Size 14, 90c.

No. 9828. Rose and Green Colored Gold (Pearl Gray Comb). sack, $1.06. Side, per pair, $1.20, No, 9811. 1/10 Filled Top, sack, 99c. Sides, per pair, $1.80 No. 981114. R. P., like cut, Set of 3. Back and Sides, complete, $1.35 No, 981174. R. P., but square ends. Set of 8. Back and Sides, complete, 75c.

| mh

Dark Azure Blue, Finest Quality Size 6, 10, 14 or graduate, 90c, Regular Blue Beads, No. 6 to 14, 85c.

We carry a stock of all styles We have the new back 2-prong fancy tops, Tac. to $1.12. Regular back combs, fancy patterns, with tai rose gold ornaments, 50c. to $1.20. No, 9811 We only sell goods we can guarantee.

WHOLESALE JEWELERS

Galvin. Clauer COMpany, *~ any sverutes

151-153 Wabash Avenue, CHICAGO, ILL.

NOTICE-—If you know of anyone who is about to start into business, tell him of CALVIN CLAUER CO., [51-153 Wabash Ave., Chicago, Ill., Wholesale Jewelers and Supplies

wey

Amber Beads, Amethyst Beads Black Beads, Coral Beads

HFIP tp,

i}

if hy emily yyy if Wu ‘

\ i

RINGS RINGS ' RINGS~ RINGS

Our Ring business this season has been simply immense

The designs are up to date

The finish is perfect Why ? The stones are all selected > The Prices are right

They are Sellers

PURCHASE YOUR FALL STOCK OF RINGS NOW

Our salesmen will call or you can order from catalogue.

Our goods are all shipped direct from factory. They are fresh and clean and not shop-worn, as is usually the case when selected from a salesman’s sample trunk. |

To our neighbors we extend a cordial invitation to call and inspect our office stock.

We assure you a hearty welcome and courteous treatment, whether you wish to buy or not.

M. J. AVERB ECK, Manufacturer, Nineteen Maiden Lane, NEW YORK

RINGS RINGS RINGS -~- RINGS

ONE DOZEN

THE SECRET

Or your “SUCCESS” is lareely due to the * Character” and * Constancy” of your REPAIR TRADE.

This, in turn, is governed by the kind of

MAINSPRINGS you use.

If you wish to enjoy this distinction, you cannot afford to be without either our *GOLDEN” coiled or *RECOILING ” Guaranteed.

The STAN DARD for 20 years

*“RECOILING” Guaranteed, $15.00 gross, $1.25 dozen.

HHHTIEAHIT A HHI Wnt TN mess

sm _<e CT AAA

AMER! CAN WATCHES,

Greuy p\vung Yullay weovuranted’eo

L C R * GOLDEN” $12.00 gross, $1.00 dozen

o> MAIL ORDERS PROMPTLY FILLED

CED REL oe H. S. MEISKEY COMPANY

© WATCHMAKERS’ and JEWELERS’ SUPPLIES

LANCASTER, PA.

RHODE ISLAND RING CO., INC.

No. 103 SABIN STREET

Dro Sewn Gd. cole ees: mel Tbe ie

| Mr. Jeweler:

This month we send you a few more of our new

designs in Signets. These, and our Tiffany and

Wedding Rings carry our Twenty Years Guarantee and are

all made of Gold Shell, which we certify to be 14 K.

They imitate exactly Solid Gold, both in finish and

CED | Aili

€ & ri

D. | Ces) ad, | appearance, and stand the 14 K. test (stone and ACI} ee )

| —_ | Yours truly.

| | Le acl a G9 eee ge Ge.., Sie. apK R Rug

and in many cases more than three times their former salary, is the verdict of young men who have availed themselves of an opportunity to take a course in the Horological Depart= ment, Bradley Polytechnic Institute, Peoria, Illinois.

It does not cost much to find out about

these things. You have been thinking of in- | ae Roe e: ee Pete - Bg x SX Ww s =< a vestigating something of this kind for years, | “ye - perhaps, why not send a postal to Horo= logical, Peoria, Ill, and learn all about it.

It is a fact not generally known that one-

half the students entering this school have had

| previous experience more or less, and wish to | improve their condition as a workman, and at

the same time swell their bank account.

HOROLOGY HALL

I E WW I ee DO | The Largest Building in the World Devoted Exclusively to a School of This Kind

1619

Green’s Electric Automatic Demagnetizer

(Patent applied for)

ALTERNATING AND DIRECT CURRENT

A perfect instrument “ Simple—Quick—Sure ”

Actual time to demagnetize a watch with this instrument 3 seconds. 12 watches demagnetized in 36 seconds, which pays cost of machine.

Complete in Polished Solid Mahog- : any, with flexible cord, socket, etc. pee S11 2 OO Net

‘**PFULL INSTRUCTIONS ACCOMPANY EACH INSTRUMENT ”’

RRA EF

One of the greatest necessities of a watchmaker’s outfit at the present time is a thoroughly reliable Demagnetizer. l*very jeweler appreciates this necessity, because of the many watches which daily become magnetized by close contact with Electrical Machinery, Street Car Motors, Dynamos, or other electrical machinery, etc.

Any article containing iron or steel will become magnetized if placed in or near a magnetic field, which magnetism may be taken from Motors, Dynamos, Electro or Permanent Magnets. When the article magnetized is hardened to any degree it will retain a certain amount of magnetic flux, therefore the parts of a watch which are made of steel beeome permanent magnets. Owing to the delicate Mainsprings and Hairsprings being affected the watch on being magnetized becomes useless as a time- keeper, and the only means to destroy the magnetism, and to bring the watch to its proper standard once n ore, is to demagnetize the movement by employing the alternating current in so doing.

In che majority of cities and towns, direct current only is used for lighting and power purposes ; it is therefore necessary to convert this into alternating current to the proper degree of strength to effectually destroy this magnetism.

This new automatic Demagnetizer is placed on the market to supply a long-felt want in this direc- tion, and is without doubt the most useful article of its kind manufactured. It not only transforms direct-current into alternating-current, giving absolutely perfect pulsations, but it can also be used on an alternating=-current circuit with the same equally satisfactory results. ans A

There are no wheels, pulleys, wiring attachments or mechanical parts to get out of order on this eee STR ao GRE cong pet machine, and in this also it is entirely different to all other demagnetizers on the market. ; SOT ee eee escolar act FOR -

The design is neat, compact, attractive and ornamental. It is made of Solid Polished Mahogany, G HADEN ANE NORRIS with nickel trimmings inside and out, the drum covered in solid leather and lined inside with water- — tight leatheroid. All parts, both exterior and interior, are made from best materia) obtainable, the con- nections permanently made and soldered, the wiring arranged inside of base, by which a short circuit is not possible, and other important troubles are avoided. It may be used on any standard lighting circuit by simply removing lamp from electric light socket and placing it in the socket on the top of instrument; then attach the plug into the socket from which the lamp has been taken,

With ordinary usage and reasonable care this instrument will last indefinitely. If neither direct nor alternating current is available, we can supply a specially wound instrument complete with dry battery which will produce same results.

er ak

Wholesale trade supplied by

W. GREEN G CO., 6 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A. HAMMEL, RIGLANDER & CoO., 47 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A. HENRY ZIMMERN &G CO., 77 John Street, New York, U.S.A. SUSSFELD, LORSCH & CO., 37 Maiden Lane, New York, U.S.A.

SPECIAL NOTE.—Order Demagnetizer from your jobber, but if for any reason they cannot or do not care to obtain it for you, write to us direct and we will give your order and correspondence prompt attention. Yours truly, W. GREEN & CO.

Importers and Jobbers ( , MI ( ‘C) American Agents 23 @ & @

Watchmakers’ Tools and Genuine Materials, Jewelers’ Supplies Queen City Material Company NEUCHATEL Mainsprings and Findings, Paper and | =)=> ‘ y $1.00 per Dozen Plush Boxes B U A L@. IN. e None Better

5 Mi. Mooney Building

Co.

fe . * e om ENG Ws WS . =” . e . . . e . ‘. . . 8 - o . . ENGON EY. a Nien Yow ia NE 17TH SUCCESSFUL YEAR

@he Jewelers’ School of Engraving

ESTABLISHED 1889 Suite 104 Heyworth Building, CHICAGO RICHARD O. KANDLER, PROPRIETOR AND CHIEF INSTRUCTOR

BEST EQUIPPED SCHOOL S OF ITS KIND UNE Ey ye pees ~~ Specimen Book of Monograms BEST AND ORIGINAL and Lettering a, Fs ° : 75 cents

SYSTEM Spoon Bowl Engraving rs Names, $2.00 up. Buildings, $4.50 up

SEND FOR HANDSOME Ua” sarge Artistic Monograms . 15 cents up

NEW CATALOG RICHARD O. KANDLER Founder of the CORRESPONDENCE eee

SOLICITED cae Der SA Studio: 1104, 42 Madison St.

Jewelers’ School of Engravi 1001 of Engraving noone

aS — &

i eo)

B \

: ZF &: Pe.

by 7 :

‘POPPY ”» PATTERN, No. 1287 Mirror, 1014 inches in length

“ORIENTAL,” No, 1301 Mirror, 10 inches in length

**COLONIAL,”? No. 1318 Mirror, 10% inches in length

"The Winners for the Fall of 1905”

Just a few of our new patterns. Do not fail to see our line. [he most

complete line of sterling silver goods shown by any one house

SY SAY. hits A ie eye

MANUFACTURERS » 726 Chestnut St., Philadelphia

( Newark, N. J. ( Philadelphia, Pa.

2a4™*

Factories

Prosperity Without Parallel ~ Reigns in the United States

And in prosperous times the Jeweler, more than any other merchant, gets the full benefit

See to it that your stock 1s full and well selected, and the only way to do this is to buy your goods from the house that has the goods. We occupy a unique position in the jewelry trade. We are not only Manufacturers on a large scale of Fine Diamond eee Emblem ‘pail and Gold Jewelry of every description, but are also Manufacturers of Sterling Silver Goods, includ- ing Sterling Silver Jewelry, Toilet Ware and Novelties; besides, we are agents for the Figin, Waltham, Howard, New York Standard and United States Watch Movements, Keystone, Crescent and Philadelphia Watch Case Companies Cases, in Gold, Silver and Filled, and distributing agents for the New England Watch Co.; besides, we are Importers of Diamonds and other Precious and Semi-Precious Stones, and we carry, without doubt, the largest and most complete stock of Diamond Jewelry, Gold and Plated Jewelry of every description, Silver-Plated Ware, and have the most complete Watch Material and Tool Department in the country. Our separate departments are in charge of experienced

men, so that your orders are filled promptly and carefully.

The only Jobbing House in the United States

running 2 factories, and where you can get everything

IE Write to us for our Special Bargain Sheets and for information regarding our Special Order Work and Repair Department.

MANUFACTURERS fj, 720 Chestnut St., Philadelphia

J Newark, N. J.

Factories" pn itadelphia, Pa.

1622

Every Customer Advertises You If You Tie Your /¢“ <= Parcels With

Reis’ Advertising Tape

It is strongly woven and finished like silk ; made in many bright color shades and different widths—from 1-16 to ¥ inch. Saves time in packing, because it sets flat and snug around the parcel and neither slips nor breaks in tying. The tape carries your name and address plainly printed from four to ten times every yard—providing a novel way of making EVERY CUS- TOMER ADVERTISE YOUR BUSINESS. Hundreds of successful jewelers use it.

Costs but a trifle more than string ; infinitely better.

WRITE FOR SAMPLES AND PRICES.

640 BROADWAY NEW YORK CITY

> Department K *x

The Improved “Ever Ready” Plato Clock

Guaranteed to be mechanically perfect and to keep accurate time

s a erie eit ed. Ses. - | Makea most attractive imy, FVER : : window displ \ Spec EY PROVED of Ra] ts Upper plates represent indow display MRP SO ar

ee CSE LATEST iM the hour

7 Py Lower plates, the “Watch the Time P Ely” minutes

NO HANDS

An appropriate NO DIAL

HOLLDAY BIR TE DAY or WEDDING GIFT

Wound, set and regu-

a om \ VS be . +3 . pe 3 ) - - be SS al } 3 wae Te / f: es : 4 : ee bs 3 6+ | ah > & ; , z

= » A

\

lated like any clock

No. 1 No. 2 No. 3 No. 4 $6.00 $6.50 $7.00 $8.00

This elegant display case given free with order for eight clocks, two of each design eee OTC TOT CURE IOC eS a ee

ORDER NOW TO INSURE HOLIDAY DELIVERIES

For trade discount apply to your jobber or

American Electrical Novelty & Mfg. C0., 304 Hudson st., New York City

ee > —

Autumn-colored grape, maple, oak or holly vines. Per dozen yards, 75c.,

274514. ; 274634.

. 2759.

. 2206. . 2208.

. 2209.

Inches Leaves High Plants 5 36 Be 7 36 c 10 45

Palm Tree, Potted

Palm Tree, § feet high, 15 leaves. Palm Tree, 12 feet high, 18 leaves.

Palm Tree, 14 feet high, 24 leaves.

VINES

Smilax, per dozen yards, 50c.

Clematis Vines, 4 flowers, 12 leaves ; per dozen yards, $1.50.

Chrysanthemum Sprays (Cut representing Flowery Spray)

No. 2145. Rose Bush

No. 2148. Rose Bush, 24 Re: : rm

, jae f No. 2539A. Jap. 12 inches long, per doz., $1.00

inches high, 3 roses and No. 2539. 1 * Rie BEE. (26 1.80

3 buds, each, $1.00; No. 25389D. 1s = SS . Sy 2.40 @ No. 25274% 1g: * es ea 6.00 11. No. 2527%. .

POZeny mht st) No. 2527. Py ee MIRE earth

The Chrysanthemum—the flower selected Rose Sprays

for the Horse Show—gives a touch of aristocracy No. 2533. Each Dozen and elegance, especially in displaying jewelry. No. 2532. Dozen roses, $1.50 S 49 $3.90 White and yellow are the most favored. No, 2533. 1.80 weg = 40 No 2534. ee i 3.00

1.00 9.00

Each, $3.00 Kach, $4.50

Each, $5.50

No. 2975B. Fall Grapevine Garland. (Cut representing two yards) No, 2975B, 12 extra fine, large, fancy, autumn colored grape leaves, as red, brown and green leaves, mixed in each yard; per dozen yards, 75c.

Ivy Vines, 18 leaves; per dozen yards, 80c.

Do not fail to ask for our new

Catalogue 1905, No. 20, just

Send for Catalogue No. 2, of 1905, just from press

from press. Free for the asking

304 Barclay Street, NEW YORK

FLAG PINS

ARE YOU SELLING FLAG PINS?

Many a jeweler is getting ready to make some extra money selling Bastian’s Flag Pins. Are you going to let the opportunity go by?

Flag Pins, as illustrated, in Sterling Silver, $1.88 a dozen. We have dies on hand for a great many school pins. Write us, and if we have the die you wish in stock, you can order in any quantity. We will

make a special die for any School if the order amounts to $5.00 net. 25 cents each and you have our guarantee of satisfaction.

We create a demand for Bastian’s Flag and Class Pins by éxtensive magazine advertising. We also make to order Badges, Medals and Buttons in Gold, Silver, Bronze or Ribbon. Special designs and estimates free of charge. Send for our new catalog—it’s free.

BASTIAN BROS.., R, 21 South Ave., Rochester, N. Y.

These pins are rapid sellers at

rank Netschert Co.

No. 2707 Folding Garland

Autumn colors, as yellow, red, green. Closed in a pack- age 8x2 inches. Opened, it extends 10 feet, for 30c. ; per dozen Garlands, $3.00.

VOL. I

(FROM THE

CITY OF MEXICO

By Special and Extraordinar, Overland Express ,

From New Orleans to Bal

and thence

TELEGRAPH

The Confirmation of

brought by they

Usceola to Pense

THE CAPTURE OF THE CAP}

MEXICO

TERRIBLE AND BLOODY CON

TREMENDOUS LOSS OF LIFE

THE FLIGHT OF SANTA ANNA TO")

GUADALOUPE

GEN, SCOTT’S ORDERS 10 THE ARMY

SS —

THE intellicence) .————————

received by the special over- land express last evening is of the greatest import ance. We give it in these columns to the exclusion of other matter of less consequence. The public will read these tele-| graphic details and also those re- ceived by the mails, which we] annex, with the most intense in-| terest.

Our thanks are due to the tele-| graphic operators for their atten- tion. “Telegraphic

Despatch—No. x

Origaba, Sept. 19, 1847.

I have the honor toinform youthat anexpressarrived | here this evening] from Mexico which brings in- telligence that General Scott was in the City of Mex- ito, That on the

bee eS

HIGHLY IMPORTANT INTELLIGENCE

canarmy ha

SEPTEMBE

R, 1847.

13th the American troops took Che- pultepec and the Citadel and went into the city that

night. General Bravo wag killed and santa

THE LEADING NEWSPAPER

done one hun- dredth part of the injury it had a right to do and which European armies have done

under similar cir- cumstances. We Oo not see that

Anpg as

its way through the fieldsand Fort of Contreras. San Antonio, Churu- bosco, Molino del Rey, Chepultepec and the gates of

San Gastea and Tacubaya to the aetett oLof Mexico.

vf

of New England, the

SPRINGFIELD REPUBLICAN

edited by Samuel Bowles, says :

A novelty in advertising is the “ Silver

Standard,”’

sritannia

Co.

published by One side advertises the

the Meriden

company’s goods; the other has every appearance of being a remarkably enter- prising illustrated journal for August,

1847, giving

accounts of

events which

took place at that time, including the issue of the first American postage stamps, the drafting of a new treaty with New Granada, giving the rights of the United States on the Isthmus of Panama, and a

ta

All fo agree in —that the

movement for the heirs of Paul Jones.

Y ENTERING Drawn by our artist from telegraphic descriptions.

settlement

with the

JEWELERS

THE

who have not seen this ‘‘remark- ably enterprising illustrated jour- nal’’ should write the publishers at Meriden, Conn.

CiTY OF MEX

Che Silver Standard

ESTABLISHED IN 1847 BY ROGERS BROS.

G36

~-FILIBUSTERING!

EXCITEMENT IN CUBA!

ew York says that -itement rough- rom re- another ; e@xX- m the ates. Finers United @wellas om the » were itha mremark- en for INum- B police raced on fas soon as arrived, and ntained the ictest surveilll.

- J = ‘\» bea _..__ es 5am >a = = + == (eee a = ‘ y

| dollars.

S, SHIPS WATCHED,

RTEEN YOUNG MEN

RESTED SUSPICION.

anceof every body and everything up to the inoment of departure. Four- teen young men of good con- nec.ions were ar- restedandthrown into prison on Friday, on sus- picion of being eonnected with the revolutionary arty.

By letters from Havana, we are apprised cf the most cruel treat- ment of all per- sons suspected of liberalism. The chain gang is full Sigh bias lh who have dared to

'preathe of hope

for liberty, anda large number of young women, particularly from the inland towns, are confined inthe city prison, .be- cause of singing some air wedded to republican verse!

— —

NEWS FROM THE GOLD FIELDS.

Gold dust was selling at San Francisco on the 3rd ult., at $17 per ounce, with the freight, insurance of 5 per cent., ex- pense, making a loss of 2 per cent. on remittances. ,

Col. Fremont hascompletedard confirmed the sale of his Mariposa tract of gold Jand in California to a London company for one million of

£98

A monthly journal devoted to the interests of the Watch, Jewelry and Optical Trades. The purpose and policy of this journal are the protection and promotion of all trade interests. all reading matter, and the exclusion of all that is not trustworthy or relevant.

eg:

A rigid censorship assures the reliability and worth of

We decline to insert advertisements

that are unreliable, or misleading in representation, defamatory in statement or detrimental to the welfare of the trade.

Vol. 26

Copyright, 1905, by B. THoRPE, Publisher,

THE KEYSTONE

A Monthly Journal Devoted to the Interests of the Jewelry and Optical Trades

Subscription—One Dollar per year, postpaid, to ail parts of the United States, Hawaii, Porto Rico, Philippines, Guam, U. §, Island of Samoa, Cuba, Mexico and Canada (except Newfoundland); single copies, regular issues, 15 cents: special issues, 25 cents. To Foreign Countries 10 Shillings (%2.44) per year; single copies, 1 Shilling (25 cents).

Payment for THE KEYSTONE, when sent by mail, should be made by a Post-Office Money Order, Bank Check or Draft, or an Express Money Order. When neither of these can be procured, send the money in a Registered Letter. All Remittances should be made payable to THE KEYSTONE.

Change of Address—Subscribers desiring their address changed, should give the old as well as the new address. Advertisements— 4 dyertising rates furnished on application. No advertisements but those of a reputable character will

be inserted.

To Advertisers—Copy for advertisements must reach us by the 25th of each month to insure insertion in the issue of the following month. Changes in advertisements should reach us not later than the 18th of the previous month.

All communications should be addressed to

THE KEYSTONE 19TH & BROWN STREETS PHILADELPHIA, PA.

CHICAGO OFFICE

42 MADISON STREET LONDON OFFICE

45 HOLBORN VIADUCT, E.C.

index to Advertisers on page !791

CONTENTS PAGE AMONG (CHIE SRR AD eeeeraro sess 6 oo Seater 1729 DECOBATILVN ABO IN -RIRANCE: 2. oe 1633-1656, 1641 FOOLISH PATENTS THAT ARE APPLIED FOR. . . 1727 GHMS (OF BEBOP ACRES (GQASE s gous ew « oe) Ulcer ie 1741 ITEMS OR INGRRESE Seer. «6 Sis ee ee ee 6 LI28% LEPRERS SE ROM De MREAIDE Fic ee eel 1733 MEAS UBS) (RDN TE IIE): ©. eo. cn ees Wie ep ret tees 5 1721 MODPBRBN MPERGCEPANDESING:: © 25 1 24 5 Ge 2 eeu 1715 NEW GOODS. AND UINVENTIONS: ...... 1728 ce, 1728 e NEW SUN=DDATE CASS os oe 5 6 uoc we go seh atte Rome) gts 1713 NEWS LETTERS: COTGE OC GIeMee re oa) gh Se aiden Seep ucetaren cle 1649, 1651, 1658 CATENIN ATM er Ae ess a od ace Pages ras ol se MS Ges ce Se ayes Cleveland and Northern Ohio. ..... AY nett ac Ea NA Dallas and the Lone Stax State: a, 2 « cae «© © 1680 DSRLOLGE <inwise bt aS rere ee, Meuron ne? Gus dacue aes 1728 9 dba(ebeasthelhey ne ee a tenes eS) oO cf eee 1675, 1677 Kansas City and the Great Southwest. ....... 1679 New Bugland: “2. ses «6 Glee is 6) & te oe nee {671 New York pechy chee eet 1643, 1645 1647, 1656 INGwS ErOM-GHeANOLLOWESt 4, occ wea rie venue eran s 1728 k Philatielphia: oss es ce © Ga yo “ape uot Seba Ras eee 1680 Pittsburs and “Vicinity «as ~ 2 6 ene ee 1667 Providence and Attleboro’ . = <.<u4 << + . 1665 SADR TAMCISCO) % is sack os b Soc, lela? Sane) a) hea 1669 St. Louis . Le Eee EE MS PE Senne. 1655 NOTES: ABOUT TRAVELING MEN .. .. . «>=: . 17449 OPTICAL DEPARTMENT: ClimicsS MOPtOMethye amas = 6 a lane = bles 1751, 1753 Frame Fitting and Adjusting ...... 1771, 1775, 1777 Method of Measuring Latent Hypermetropia, A. . 1757 New Apparatus to Detect Malingering ....... 1773 New Apparatus for Photographing the Fundus. . . 1765 New Instrument to Shorten the Subjective Branch of Refraction. <6 si. .on4 oS ee “SLE oe: 1761 Optical Questions and. Answers. J J28.......- 1755 Photographing Pictures ee ke i 1769 teviews of Ophthalmological Literature 1747, 1749, 17538 Tests and Studies of the Oeular Muscles. ..... 1759 What is the Most Expressive Title for a Refracting Optician:?:. <a MM Sis esc ee 6 Sea SAMPLE: ADVBBRBESBRVEENES <= 5s 6... « «> LD LES SHOW WiINDOWawrLe . 2 o soe eee e fee ie SUTAC TONG ROVE AR DIVER NG. 4 es ce Foe 1725

TECHNICAL DEPARTMENT:

ADGOEEMOTAVING «35 a & ss +o wee eee 4 EL 1693 Blectmenty for Jewelers. « i os Gos eee « 1697, 1701 Howato: Make'a Hall )Clock Case 3.64 =. «6. 1695 PIOSSONS INELOLOLOL YT: % veh a, & com eee eee 1689, 1691 Photographs on Watches, Cigarette Cases, Ete. . . . 1704 NVOERALOD INOLOS! 5 cease eras Gi es ne 1699, 1703 TWEEZER’S TALKS, JOHN 1S oe amp eeaeeae ae 1745 WHATSTO DO WITH SMALL SAVINGS. . - . is 4% 1737

All rights reserved,

Philadelphia, October, 1905

No. 10

Entered at the Philadelphia Post-office as second-class matter January 14, 1887

Holiday Number of THE KEYSTONE

HE November number of this journal

will be our annual Holiday Number, with the customary extra attractiveness of cover and contents. We anticipate, indeed, that the forthcoming number will be the most magnificent and valuable which we have ever issued—an impressive reflex of current conditions, in that it will symbolize in external richness and internal worth the flood-tide of prosperity which the country and the trade are now enjoying. The special cover design will be an accurate reproduction in colors of an exquisite oil painting executed to our order by an eminent artist, and beau- tifully symbolic of the jewelry trade in its most refined and poetic aspects. The con- tents will be enriched by many special features of seasonable interest to the trade, and an unusual wealth of high-grade illustration.

In view of the extra value and beauty of this issue, we would suggest that all whose subscriptions expire this month renew at once, so as not to miss this unique Holiday

Number.

New Serial * Electricity for Jewelers”

LECTRICITY is now used for such an

infinite variety of purposes, that a knowledge of its properties and utilities is a recognized part of a modern liberal educa- tion. For the mechanic of the time, how- ever, this knowledge is a necessity rather than a mere accomplishment, and for the jeweler in particular, the time has come when a practical acquaintance with the working of the mysterious fluid will have much to do with the successful practice of his craft. Already there are on the market myriad electric machines for facilitating the work of the jeweler and optician, and the number is being increased almost daily. In view of this, our readers will be gratified to know that we are beginning in this issue the publi- cation of a serial aptly entitled ‘‘ Electricity for Jewelers.’ The various books on elec- tricity, which treat the subject in an academic and general way, call for more time for study

than the jeweler can afford. In the serial the subject will be treated from the one stand- point of practical value to the jeweler, who will thus acquire the knowledge that serves him with a minimum expenditure of time and study. An installment of the serial will

appear in each issue till concluded.

Growing Audacity of Jewelry Thieves

N view of the growing audacity of the thieves and swindlers who make jewelers and jewelry stores their special prey, it 1s opportune at this time to impress upon the trade the necessity of extra watchiulness and resourceful

against this mischievous

fraternity. Last month a new record was made by the Eastern operators, when a num- ber of robberies were committed within the well-watched Maiden Lane district. A ‘‘dead line’’ was supposed to exist around this dis- trict which no robber could cross with impu- nity, but the bolder spirits have shown their contempt for this circle by several successful robberies at its very center. In one case a piece was cut out of the show window and seve- ral hundred dollars’ worth of goods extracted under the very nose, so to speak, of watch- men and police. In another case, the bur- elars simply opened the front door with a key, locked it behind them and went about their work in a leisurely fashion, operating by the aid of the electric light on the corner. They passed everything that was bulky and decided that silver knives and forks would do. They emptied a score of boxes of knives and fotks, and when they had enough to load a dress-suit case they departed and locked the door behind them. That this should happen within the well-watched precincts of Maiden Lane, should be a sufficient warning

to the trade in less-guarded localities.

/e justice to the burglars, thieves and

window-smashing desperadoes, we are compelled to say that the majority of the thefts in jewelry stores are made possible by the almost incredible guilelessness of the storekeeper and culpable laxity in the pro-

1626

tection of his stock. One country jeweler recently left several hundred dollars’ worth of goods in his window over night to find them gone next morning, and the Maiden Lane jeweler did likewise. He ‘‘ intended to remove them later,’’ of course, but the burglar was more prompt and attended to business in the interval. Almost daily we hear of jewelers being victimized by plausible swindlers, from whom they very considerately accept bogus checks in payment for goods, not infrequently giving a considerable amount in change. This is a most inexplicable mani- festation of mercantile imbecility. Need we repeat that jewelers should never neglect to put their goods, .or the most valuable part of them, in the safe before leaving the store, and they should never countenance payment by check except in case of such customers as are personally known to them.

In view of recent happenings, we must also warn our readers to be extra watchful of strangers who examine such goods as dlia- monds, rings, etc., lest they be made victims of the substitution game as has happened very frequently in recent months. There 1s, indeed, little excuse for being swindled by such tricks as this. Ordinary care, a judicious suspicion of strangers, and a fixed rule never to allow your attention to be diverted from the customer or the goods in the course of the examination, will generally give sufficient security.

A Novel Method of Advertising

HE strenuousness of modern business

competition, and the sometimes ridicu- lous extremes to which the modern adver- tising man will go, found a unique illustration in a recent happening in Brooklyn. It isa peculiarity of many business streets that one side of the thoroughfare is patronized much more by pedestrians than the other side, and very often a store on one side is, for this reason, much more valuable than a store on the other. A Street,

Brooklyn, is one of the thoroughfares which

portion of Fulton have this peculiarity, and the merchants of the dull side started a co-operative movement to attract the passing crowds to their side. An advertisement appeared in the local papers on the morning of September 18th announcing that every morning of the week, between 9 and 10 o'clock, a man would start walking up and down the ‘‘ bargain side’ of Fulton Street, as the merchants interested have dubbed their location, and would con- tinue to do so until between 4 and 5 P. M. The man, it was announced, would carry a pocket full of silver dollars, and at every half hour and quarter hour, to the moment, figured from the time he started, he would

turn around sharply and present one of the

A Ed SE

silver dollars to the person he found directly behind him—man, woman or girl. No money was to be given to boys.

All that the recipient of the money was required to do in return for the money was to give his or her address, so that the ‘‘bar- gain man,’’ as the representative of the firms was called, might be enabled to prove that he had actually given away the money. In the windows of the five leading stores was displayed each day a list of the names and addresses of those who received the dollars distributed for the previous day.

This

chiefly remarkable for its spectacular charac-

novel method of advertising is

ter. As a means of spreading the fame of the so-called bargain side of the street it may have been temporarily successful, but it is not the kind of advertising which would have the endorsement of business ethics or indeed of common sense. A preferable way and the only permanently effective one to enliven and popularize the dull side of the street is by new store fronts, more attractive windows, better light and thoroughly pro- gressive business-doing.

The Patent Office a Paying Institution

T is but natural to suppose that the rapid industrial development in this country should stimulate unusual activity in the field of invention, and the recently published re- port of the Commissioner of Patents shows that such is the case. We learn from this interesting report that the twelve months ended June 30th last were the banner year in the history of the United States Post Office. The report states :

There were received in the last fiscal year 52,323 applications for mechanical patents, 749 ap- plications for designs, 174 applications for reissues, 1846 caveats, 11,298 applications for trade-marks, 1236 applications for labels and 448 applications for prints. There were 30,266 patents granted, in- cluding reissues and designs, and 1426 trademarks, 1028 labels and 345 prints were registered. The number of patents that expired was 19,567. The number of allowed applications which were by

operation of law forfeited for non-payment of the final fees was 5154.

It is a gratifying fact, and an excep- tional one in government departments, that the Patent Office not only pays its way, but makes a very substantial profit. The report ‘The total receipts of the office were $1,737,334; the total expenditures, $1,472,467, and the sur-

for the past fiscal year states :

plus of receipts over expenditures, being the amount turned into the Treasury, was $264,- 667.’’ As there is no greater benefactor of his country than the inventor, and as the compulsory precaution of patenting should be facilitated and cheapened as much as possible, it is but natural to expect that the surplus

SEY Y S27 sOsINGEe

October, 1905

income of the Patent Office should be used for the purposes of the office and not diverted to general treasury needs. tors are

As a rule, inven- not overburdened with individual wealth, and the extra amount paid in by them, if used in perfecting the equipment of the office, would, at least indirectly, revert to its worthy source.

Floating Exposition of American Manufactures

O* all the plans devised for the extension

of American trade in foreign countries the most novel and, let us hope, the most effective, is the floating exposition organized by the Export Shipping Company of New York City.

pleted for chartering a 500-foot, 8000 tons

Arrangements have been com-

register, trans-Atlantic steamer, for a fifteen- months’ trip around the world.

The voyage of the American invasion, or the American Floating Exposition as it has been named, is to begin with the year 1906, and the itinerary includes stops at the principal ports of Great Britain, Russia, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Germany, Hol- land, Belgium, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Austria, Greece, Turkey, Bulgaria, Egypt, India, China, Japan, Australia, New Zeal- and, Ecuador, Peru, Chile, Uruguay, Brazil, the Northern South American countries, Central America and the West Indies, making a sea voyage of about 60,000 miles.

HE ship is to be equipped with three decks for the purpose of displaying samples of what the United States has to sell to her neighbors, and the space available for the purpose 1s about 30,000 square feet.

On the first or shelter deck will be shown samples of industrial art and novelties of all kinds, such as small tools, hardware and articles of small bulk. The second or upper decks will be devoted to agricultural imple- ments, vehicles, musical instruments and other bulky articles, while the third deck will contain machinery and heavy articles. On this deck both steam and electric power will be developed and supplied to the exhibitors throughout the vessel so an actual working sample of machine demonstrating its uses can be shown,

The saloon deck will contain dining rooms, smoking rooms, library and school room, and the promenade deck has cabin capacity for the two hundred representatives who will accompany the exhibit for the pur- pose of exploiting the goods on exhibition.

The enterprise is to be managed entirely in the interests of the exhibitors, who share

the expense on a most economical scale.

October, 1905

The Flood-Tide of Prosperity

Te period of prediction is now over

and the country stands face to face with the greatest opportunity in its history. The crops are no longer at the mercy of the fickle elements or destructive insects, and _ their volume runs into figures that would stagger belief if prediction had not made them so familiar Once again corn is king, the total yield being placed at 2,625,000,000 bushels, which surpasses all previous records. The wheat crop falls but a little short of the largest previous yield, with an estimated total of 685,000,000 bushels. This year’s grain crop, as estimated on gov- ernment data, compared with the ascertained harvests of 1903 and 1904, is as follows:

1905. 1904. Bushels. Bushels.

Corn® , 2,625,000,000 2,467,000,000

1903 Bushels.

2,224,000,000

Wheat 685,000,000 552,000,000 638,000,000 Oats 899,000,000 894,000,000 784,000,000 2ye | 27,000,000 27'000,000 29,000,000 Barley 130,000,000 139,000,000 — 132,000,000 Totals 4,366,000,000 4,079,000,000 3,827,000, 00

some idea of the

‘T2 conivey

immense volume of these crops, many ingenious calculations have been made. One statistician has figured that to transport this grain crop it would take 1,500,000 cars, which divided into trains of fifty cars each would require 37,500 locomotives. These trains would extend a distance of 12,286 miles, and would occupy four tracks, extending from New York to San Francisco. To hold the corn crop alone, it is estimated, would require trains 21,000 miles in length. It is little wonder that the railroads have placed orders amounting to millions of dollars for new equipment in locomotives, cars and improved roadway. The Pennsyl- vania Railroad alone has ordered no _ less than 16,000 new freight cars for delivery early next year, at an approximate cost of about $16,000,000, and other railroads, especially the Western roads, are said to be doing even more in proportion.

UT it is when converted into dollars

that the billions of bushels impress us most forcibly. We would then have $1, 312,- 500,000 for the corn crop at 50 cents a bushel; $548,000,000 for the wheat crop at 80 cents a bushel; $233,740,000 for oats at 26 cents a bushel; $16,200,000 for rye at 60 cents a bushel, and $65,000,000 for barley at 50 cents a bushel, making a grand total of $2,175,440,000.

This divided among the entire popula- tion of the country would make a snug sum, and yet it does not include the values of the

fe op ey =

FROM HARPER'S WEEKLY

minor farm produce in hay, vegetables, fruit, poultry and animals. ‘There are also cotton, tobacco, sugar cane, rice, hops and other articles to swell the grand total of wealth for

the farmers.

UITE naturally have infused life into every branch of R. G. Dun & Co.’s latest weekly

‘‘Current trade shows a dis-

these immense crops

business. review says : tinct gain in comparison with the same time last year; crop reports are reassuring and evidences of continued activity are noted in almost every department of industry. A wholesome growth, without the threatening

danger of reckless inflation of prices, is a commercial condition greatly to be desired, and these elements are recorded in the ma- Bradstreet’s informs

)

jority of dispatches.’ us that ‘‘the tenor of jobbing trade and industrial favorable than at any preceding period this

advices 1s more unanimously year,’ and that the industrial activity is unprecedented. ‘‘ Collections are unusually good, money is easy and railway tonnage very heavy. Labor is well employed, and additional reports of a scarcity of help come Similar re- ports come from all other sources. The iron industry, that great barometer of trade, is having an unprecedented demand, and the

production will be the greatest ever recorded.

from widely-separated points.’

ANK clearings, which are a pretty accu- rate measure of mercantile activity, tell the same story of unusual prosperity. The

REYS TON &

COPYRIGHTED, 1905, BY HARPER & BROTHERS

Uncle Sam and his Best Girls

1627

August aggregate of bank clearings for the United States reached the stupendous figure of $10,838,989,760. This amount was never approached by any previous August total, and the reports from the first weeks in September indicate a similar rate of increase for the present month. For the week ending September 21st, the bank clearings were $2,514,652,749, which is 17 per cent. in excess of the clearings for the same week of last year.

Nearly every month of 1905 has shown an increase over the corresponding period of last year, and the total figures for the ninety clearing-house cities of the United States,from January Ist to the end of August, were $92,298, 470,000, against a total of $66,785,405, 243, for the corresponding period of 1904. Business failures, too, indi- cate the gradual strengthening of the mercantile situation. The num- ber of failures for the week ended September 21st was 173, com- pared with 203 for the same week of last year.

All this is indicative of a record- breaking holiday business for the trade at large and suggests the wisdom of early and liberal pur- In view of the unusual late-comers may find jobbers’ stocks so picked and depleted that there may be de- Such an

chasing. demand,

lay in filling orders. exigency would be unpleasant for the jobber who is desirous for policy as well as for profit sake to please every customer, while the retailer would only have himself to blame for the loss he would sus- tain through lack of the goods. Under conditions the

danger of over-buying is reduced to a mini-

present

mum, and it is wise to be on the safe side.

Patenting Articles in Japan T is an interesting fact that the result of the Russian-Japanese war has introduced The

the European

a new factor in the matter of patents. attention of America and countries has been officially directed to the importance of patenting their inventions in Japan. It is pointed out that Europeans generally are not fully alive to the importance of patenting their inventions in Japan, one reason being that most of their inventions have not as yet much to do with the trade of the far East. But inventors are warned that if they still continue indifferent and omit to patent their future inventions in Japan, they will be necessarily deprived in the near future

of the privileges of Japanese patent law.

1628

THE GORHAM

TO THE JEWELRY TRADE

] The Gorham Mfg. Company beg toannounce that they have moved to the New Gorham Building at Fifth Avenue and Thirty-sixth Street, New York.

Advantage is taken of this opportunity to 1m-

press upon their friends in particular, and the trade in general, their earnest desire that the New Building may be regarded as the headquarters of jewelers who may visit New York.

( Special accommodations have been reserved for

them and every facility is tendered to further the transaction of their business, not only with our- selves but, by appointment, with other houses. Here their letters may be addressed and here business appointments made.

GORHAM MF’G CO.

Silversmiths and Goldsmiths

: (G, Fifth Avenue and 36th Street, New York 7 BRANCHES

CHICAGO NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO LONDON 137 Wabash Ave. 23 Maiden Lane 120 Sutter St. Ely Place

WORKS: Providence an d New York

October, 1905

The Making of the Clerk or Salesman A Word to Employers

T is too frequently the practice to let the clerk make himself. If he is ambitious, and possesses unusual natural ability, such a course is probably best for the clerk, as it affords opportunity for the exercise of his own initiative ; but if he is of the quality of the majority he needs guidance, so that he will subsequently not have to confess, with

)

Topsy, that he ‘‘ just growed up.’’ He needs the guidance for his own good ; but he likewise needs the guidance for his employer's good.

Yet few clerks and salesmen get real guidance, instruction, coaching, business edu- cation, from the employer, but must acquire knowledge entirely from observation and imitation. Such indifference or shortsighted- ness on the part of the employer is wasteful of the opportunities which are at hand for increas- ing the efficiency of his force and thus imme- diately promoting the welfare of his business.

You are quite willing to spend time on the preparation of your advertising matter, but grudge the time given to showing the salesman why and how ; yet your advertise- ment speaks at long range while the salesman must speak at close range ; and effectively, if the advertisement is to show returns in profits. The subsequent personal contact must make the advertisement pay, else the advertisement is wasted ; yet many employers ignore that close attention to the schooling of the hands which insures the efficiency of the selling-end, after the publicity-end has brought the people to the store.

‘‘Business’’ schools are all right, within their limitations, but they cannot supply just what you want for your store; tor they cannot furnish that particular quality of personality which is in yourself and which should be reflected in some degree from those youemploy. The ready-made clerk or sales- man is not the best for you ; your make will pay you best.

It takes time and trouble to ‘‘make’’ a clerk ; but everything worth while takes time and trouble. If you employed filty or five hundred hands, individual instruction would be too great an undertaking ; but the average jeweler employs from one to five. It should not be felt impossible to take a single clerk in hand, day by day, for a brief schooling ; to show the differences in qualities of goods, the why and wherefore of your preferences, the manner of meeting objections and answering inquiries; to explain your theories of salesmanship, and illustrate them ; to quiz the clerk on how he would do in such-and-such cases, and then improve his ideas ; to encourage him to make suggestions for the improvement of the service; to act

as his ‘‘ guide, philosopher and friend.”’

DT Ee

The result of such effort on your part to ‘“make’’ the clerk would be to add immedi- ately and considerably to his value to you ; and thus simply as an investment you would be the gainer for the time spent upon his improve- ment. Indeed it is most surprising that while merchants will haggle for the ultimate last penny in buying, or will be parsimonious in their store economies,so many of them seem to overlook the gains which would come to them by increasing the efficiency of their sales- men through careful and systematic teaching. From the view-point of selfish self-interest, the employer should ‘‘make’’ his clerk.

And from another quarter comes the same call upon him. The employer of from one to five clerks is charged with certain moral responsibilities to them. He is a trustee for their development while in his employ. The old man of eighty who planted a young fruit tree recognized his obligations to the future. The employer has no defence on the ground that ‘‘his efficient clerks gen- erally leave him when they know all he can

) 4

teach. If they do, ¢hezrs is the responsi- bility ; he must assume, instead, that they wll ‘‘act squarely.’’ Without attempting to divine the future, he must act up to his full duties in the present ; and his duty is clearly to do the best possible for those under him, in the way of counsel and instruction.

And while they get, he will surely gain.

Transforming * Dull Monday”

HE merchants’ associations throughout the country, which are now so popular, are proving their usefulness in a great variety of ways. For instance, Saturday, in most towns and small cities, is usually a very busy day, while on Monday business is correspond- ingly dull. This was the case in Knoxville, Tenn., and the local association decided to adopt some measure whereby trading on the two days might be more equally divided. Accordingly they agreed to boom Monday as a bargain day and each one advertised a goodly list of bargains. The newspapers lent their aid to the movement by devoting considerable space to the plan and explaining its advantages. The result, as reported in the A/erchant’ s Record, was highly satisfactory. The com-

bined announcements of the merchants brought out a great crowd of shoppers and, while Saturday’ s business did not suffer to any great extent, Monday’s trading was be- yond all precedent. The merchants are so well pleased with the idea that ‘* Bargain Monday ”’ will bea regular event in Knoxville, and no doubt similar action will be taken by the local merchants’ associations in other towns and cities. To transform ‘‘dull Monday”

into a busy business day is well worth while.

NE YS TON &

1629

Improvements in Modern Store Construction

T was our privilege a few days ago to

examine with some particularity the mag- nificent new store now being erected by that world-famed master of merchandising, John Wanamaker. One of the things of interest to the trade which particularly arrested our attention in this new structure was the close- ness of the window floors to the level of the sidewalk. The distance between the window and the ground does not seem to be more than six or eight inches, and this, we were told, is in accordance with the very latest ideas in show-window construction. As six inches seemed to us to be the limit which good judgment would suggest, we were sur- prised to learn that a large shoe manufacturer, who has some forty stores in as many different cities, recently gave instructions to have the show-window floors lowered to the level of the street. This seems to be rushing to the other extreme, but jewelers who contemplate reconstructing the front of their stores should keep in mind the advisability of having the window floors as low as possible. In this age of hurry the window display should be easily visible, and to this end should be This

necessitates a low floor, high, window-filling

placed in the natural line of vision. displays being no longer in order. In our day the show window has attained such importance as an advertising factor and sale- maker that, architecturally, it merits more attention than probably any part of the store.

NOTHER feature of the new store is the greatly improved method of light-

ing. It has long been evident that, in the case of the store as well as the window, the ideal lighting system would be one in which the lamps would be hidden from view. In the new method this has been practically attained, the much-desired effect being made possible by ingenious improvements in the arc lamps and the steel ceiling, or rather by The scientifically designed steel ceilings of latest construction have a circular light-balancing

a combination of these improvements.

cove, in which the improved lamp is practi- cally hidden from view. This cove, which forms an ornamental part of the ceiling itself, has other advantages besides the lamp con- cealment. It results in a better and more evenly distributed light and does away with the annoying shadows thrown by the old form of arc lamp. The excessive brilliancy of the illumination below the lamps and in the immediate vicinity is toned down to nor- mal requirements, while the fainter light between the lamps is increased to a percepti- ble degree. This improved lighting system is admirably adapted for use by the jeweler.

= _——=

Tree New Simmons Chain Posterette

T is by far the handsomest window poster we’ve ever put out and tells most attrac-

tively a pretty story sure to appeal potently to all women and to all men who are thinking of gifts for women.

In this miniature reproduction in cold black and white, there’s no hint of the rich, harmonious warmth of tint shown in the posterette itself—which is 11% x 15 inches and mounted on a handsome tinted and pebbled mat.

It’s an ideal attraction for a jeweler’s window—striking, yet wholly refined and artistic. If shown in your window, unquestionably it would draw all eyes— not only to itself, but to whatever goods were displayed with it.

IT WILL BE SENT FREE—POSTAGE PAID—UPON YOUR REQUEST, SO secure it without delay; better write at once.

R. F. Simmons Company Main Office and Works, ATTLEBORO, MASS.

Salesrooms, 9-13 Maiden Lane, New York, and 103 State St., Chicago

October, 1905

Fighting a Sudden Blaze in the Store

N a recent issue we reported the almost

total destruction of a jewelry store by a fire which started in broad daylight and in a few moments gained such headway that the single clerk in the store at the time was unable to extinguish or control it. This accidental conflagration affords food for thought, now that we are on the threshold of the holiday season, when the stock in the store is exceptionally valuable, when the long, dark evenings call for abundant illumin- ation and when the inflammable materials usually used in window displays are necessarily in close proximity to many lights. Merchants, as a rule, are all too negligent in this matter. Some of those whose property is insured seem to think that the insurance policy in the safe makes the store fire-proof, and some will tell you that there is not so much reason for care as they have sufficient insurance to cover any loss that may occur. But it must be kept in mind that the loss in stock or in the structure is not the only loss to be con- sidered. It is a recognized and very serious fact that a loss of trade invariably follows the destruction of a store building and its con- tents. This is mainly due, no doubt, to the fact that customers find another store in the interval of reconstruction.

WG these thoughts in mind, you should ask yourself what would hap- pen if a fire broke out in your store, or in the rubbish of the cellar or in any other part of. the building. We have still with us the match-chewing mouse, the faulty insulation, the explosive benzine and gasoline and numer- ous other unlikely, but always possible, sources of a blaze. Wecannot eliminate the sources of fire, but we can do much to reduce the possibilities of serious damage to a minimum. In every store or workshop some form of fire extinguisher should always be at hand, and a pail of water is probably the cheapest and most available of all. If a faulty insula- tion should start a blaze in your Christmas window, a pail of water at the moment will be a much more effective property-saver than the entire fire-brigade ten minutes later. Tank extinguishers are another serviceable invention in case of a sudden blaze, but, as in the case of the pail of water, they are rarely in their proper place when wanted.

A. more recent device which should be conveniently placed in the store and window is the dry compound extinguisher. We have, from time to time, stated in our columns the formula for this powder, but it can be more cheaply purchased than made. These extin- guishers have one good advantage in that they occupy little space, being about two inches in diameter and twenty-two in length.

T FE

Besides their small dimensions they have the following qualifications to commend them :

They are effective. The powder in one tube will do the work of several buckets of water, and in much less time.

They can be operated by any one. A preco- cious child could easily handle one of the tubes, if necessary, and with telling effect.

They are always available and for instant use. It is simply a case of ‘‘ yank and throw,”’ as a tube weighs only three pounds.

The powder is absolutely harmless—except to the fire. It will not injure the finest fabrics, but will brush off as easily as ordinary dirt.

The expense is inconsiderable—one-fifth that of the usual tank extinguishers.

The tubes are never out of order. The con- tents can never freeze, cannot explode and will not deteriorate.

In the fight with fire, science and inven- tion are accomplishing much, and it behooves

the merchant to keep posted on the many new

contrivances.

A Cash Discount Calculation MERCHANT, who was evidently awak-

ening to one of the fundamental factors in successful merchandising, recently pro- pounded the following very practical question to our esteemed contemporary, Zhe Dry

Goods -cononitst :

What advantage, if any, has a merchant of lim- ited means and of good credit, if he borrows $1000 from bank and pays interest at the rate of six per cent. per annum and uses said money to pay his bills, and also for anticipation at the rate of six per cent. per annum, or fifty cents on each hundred dollars ?

We have frequently answered this ques- tion in its various forms, but the subject is one of such importance at this purchasing season that we can well afford to give space

to our contemporary’s very complete reply :

AOS AG to circumstances, there may

be an immense difference between inter- est at six per cent. per annum and six per cent. cash discount.

If a merchant borrows $1000 at six per cent. per annum, he can have the use of the sum for a whole year for $60, but by dis- counting one bill amounting to $1000 at six per cent. he could get $60 in one day. And if the terms of the bill were: ‘‘ July rst, six per cent., otherwise strictly net July 2d,”’ the $60 discount would be the equivalent of interest at the rate of over two thousand per cent. per annum.

A merchant certainly will gain in various ways by discounting his bills, even if money does cost him six per cent. per annum. There is little doubt that merchants who discount, especially those who ‘‘anticipate,’’ obtain advantages in regard to prices, etc., which are not enjoyed by merchants who do not pursue this policy.

For example, wholesalers at times give to favored merchants (those who discount, etc.) exceptional ‘‘net’’ prices, perhaps far

BBYS TON &

1631

below what the usual discount prices might be, knowing that such merchants will pay the net bills when due ; whereas they hesitate to

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net’’

cc

give such prices to merchants who are zof in the habit of discounting, lest such merchants, though taking advantage of the low net prices (thinking that, since it is ‘‘net’”’ there would apparently be no gain thereby), may not pay the net bili when due.

Bu laying aside all such considerations, there is no doubt that a merchant would gain by borrowing money from a bank at six per cent.

As an everyday example, let us take a bill subject to the low discount of two per Say it is dated July 1st. The terms read, two per cent. ten days ; sixty days net —which means that if the bill is paid on or before July 11th, two per cent. may be deducted—but that if the buyer waits until, say, August 30th, he must pay the full amount of the bill without discount.

Therefore, if he pays the bill on or before July 11th—z. e., fifty days before maturity—and deducts two per cent., he earns an amount that, in this case, is equiva- lent to rate of more than fourteen per cent. per annum.

Let us take another bill, dated July rst, Six per cent, ten

cent.

interest at the

with terms as follows : days ; sixty days extra; four months net. This bill is due net about six months after its date, say December 30th ; but in this case the merchant has three options.

Firstly, he may pay the bill on or before July rith and deduct at least seven per cent., being six per cent. for ten days and per In this case also

cent. extra for anticipation. this is equivalent to interest at the rate of more than fourteen per cent. per annum.

OS EN ae he may pay the bill seventy

days after its date, say September gth, and deduct only six per cent. For paying the bill almost four months before its maturity, he gets six per cent., which, in this case, is equivalent to interest at the rate of about eighteen per cent. per annum.

Thirdly, he can wait till maturity and not deduct any discount.

From the above example it seems plain that the higher the discount—-and in many cases bills are subject to more than six per cent.—the greater will be the advantage of the merchant if he borrows, as mentioned, and discounts.

As to anticipation, if the allowance for the period covered by the dating is at the rate of only six per cent. per annum, then the merchant will only come out even, except in so far as the reputation for anticipating his bills gives him an exceptional advantage.

1632

Waltham Watches

The issue is announced of the following 16 size movements

16 Size, 3/4 Plate, S. W. Movements Pendant Setting

Hunting or Open-Face

—EEES

No. 625, Nickel

17 Jewels, Red Gilded Settings; Exposed Pallets;

Cut Expansion Balance; Patent breguet Hairspring, Hardened and Tempered in Form; Patent Micro- metric Regulator; Tempered Steel Safety Barrel; Exposed Winding Wheels; Red Gilded Center Wheel.

American Waltham Watch Co. Waltham, Mass.

ecorative

CANCE

M. Remané

Throughout the industrial nations the decorative arts hold to-day a position of importance which they have never before attained. In these arts, it is too well known to need comment, France was the pioneer. From the fifteenth century onward, beginning with Louis XI. of sinister memory, sovereigns, prime ministers and, upon occasion, even royal favorites, set their energies to found the enterprises which have contributed so largely to the prolonged artistic and economic predominance of their country. But fate, fortune, evolution—perhaps it were better to say. ultimate justice—does not permit any one people to absorb, to the detriment of all others, that degree of creative energy which is necessary to permanent supremacy. Therefore, in accordance with this fixed law, we find that excellence in the decorative arts is at present divided and diffused among a variety of nations and races. Ours is an age of decentralization, and the tendency to diffusion, favored by the rapidly multiplying means of communication and transport, will strengthen with advancing time.

France, to argue even from the opinion of her most loyal and enlight- ened children and admirers, will never again regain her old-time dictatorship in the arts, major or minor. But we may compare her present, and her probable future position with reference to competing nations, to the place occupied in American educational interests by Harvard University, which was long recognized as the paramount intellectual force of the new world, raising up a constant succession of great scholars to cope with the constantly changing prob- lems of science and of society. This position, altered through the gradual development of the entire country and the conse- quent multiplication of centers of culture, still remains unique ; for the past cannot be effaced, and individuality is persistent. Thus it is with France, and in all that pertains to art her con- temporaries must yet learn of her. Her technical skill is un- paralleled, her power of selec- tion unique, and such is the delicacy of her vision that it recalls the refinement of the ancient Greek.

For these reasons the American artist, especially the designer or the art-artisan, can- not turn his thoughts in a more profitable direction than to study the work, the methods, and the habits of his French similar, as well as the condi- tions by which the latter is surrounded.

Gifted highly Superiority of by Nature, French Culture the French-

man is also ereatly aided by inherited taste, as by a capital upon which to base his experiments ; further- more, he lives in an atmosphere from which he absorbs patience

M. leuillatre Vase; enamel and crystal

i

Ioy Ireme Sargent

Necklace and Pendant

and constancy in labor. Finally, the economic situation prevailing in his older country is well worthy of study, as presenting pitfalls to be avoided and advantages to be sought in the new world.

The opportunity for such important and interesting research is best offered in the yearly exhibitions, or sa/ovs, which are, as it were, landmarks of art-evolution: showing, as they must, every indication of progress, of arrested development, or of decline. But to understand and to interpret such indications there are required a trained mind and an experienced eye, such as are possessed only by those who are at once critics and artists.

This happy combination of judge and technician exists in the French writer, M.Verneuil, well known in the United States, who, in the latest issues of the Parisian review, A7¢ et Décoration, estimates, froma careful, impartial survey of the exhibits made in the sa/ons of 1905, the actual state of the decorative arts in France.

M. Verneuil’s historical notes upon the modern move- Rapprochement of ment, his schemes for the co-operation of the designer Art and Industry = with the manufacturer, his investigation of industrial

methods, his denunciation of false economy on the part of the manufacturer, and of false pride on the part of the designer are too valuable to be confined to expression in a single language. In short, his admirable common sense demands that his summary of the situation in France be given to the English-speaking public. And it would seem that no more fitting place than these pages cuuld be chosen to contain this sum- mary; since, ow- ing to the influ- ence of theschool of Lalique, the craft of the gold- smith has risen to the first rank among the deco- rative arts, or, to speak more truly, it has taken its place beside the exclusive fine arts of painting and sculpture.

The sum- mary of M. Ver- neuil, broad in its scope and references, might be criticized by one devoted to some special craft, as dealing too largely with generalities to be of service to him; but the error of such a critic is apparent in the truth of the axiom that what is true of a class, is also true of any individual belonging to that class:, “Tro, ‘be

M, Bonvallet

Silver Cup

(1633)

T AH K EY S TT ON EG October, 1905

more explicit, we may say that M. Verneuil’s illu- | stration of the TF} cost of commer- cializing a new design may be carried, with small loss in its appli- cation, from the textile art to that of the gold- smith. And so we might continue indefinitely to comment upon the argument of the able French writer ; but it is better that the reader, until now furnished with bare sug- gestions, be placed in direct communication with M. Ver- neuil, whowrites as follows: ‘*Kach year, the Salons at- ford us the pre- text to discuss the state of de- corative art, and to compute artistic pro duction. For this reason, on the present occasion, instead of occupying ourselves at length with the objects exhibited, it may be interesting to cast a more searching glance than is usual upon the progress of the modern decorative movement ; further- more, because, perhaps, we are approaching a turning of the way which may become danger- ous, both for our national decora- tive art and for our artists them-

Decorative Art in France

M. Brandt

selves. “The <t*¢- generative im- pulse in the de- corative arts is yet new in France ; counting among us but a few years of life. This impulse had previously awakened among the En- olish and the Belgians. In Eneland, Morris, Walter Crane, Burne- Paper Knife: Horn and metal, simulating a locust. Jones, and M. René Lalique others had im- parted to this new art charac- teristics which charmed the public and led it captive. The Belgians succeeded, although less brilliantly, through the pursuit of other methods.

“In France, the movement at first timid, rapidly grew emphatic ; artists, fully understanding the importance existing in this development, for themselves as well as for art, devoted themselves to the previously despised crafts. At the instance of Cazin, the noted painter, a section was granted to art industries in the expositions of the National Society of Fine Arts ; the advancing public interest M. Brandt

in the section keeping pace with the rapidly increasing number of exhibits. The Society of French Artists was forced to follow the example thus set, and a movement of considerable power was instituted : one, it is necessary to remember, which was created solely by artists. Such action was certainly logical, since the artist is above all else a creator. As a result of this movement, ceramists were developed who still to-day charm us; examples of cabinet - making were produced, which gradually gave us simple, flexible forms re- leased from the current common- place; goldsmith- ing, owing to Lalique, revived, and resumed its old importance among the arts ; objects in pewter and leather, marquetry, enam- els, and embroid- eries added further testimony to the new spirit of the times by revealing charac-

Pendant

teristics of freshness and grace. ‘‘ As was inevitable, and especially at the beginning of the movement, imperfections were observable in the things produced. Extremists threw themselves forward, who, wishing to annihilate everything old and to begin anew, compromised in the public mind a movement which although incipient, was yet already in- stinct with life and strength. But that was only an incident. The greatest wrong to the natural, logical developments of the decorative arts has been effected through the seizure, the monopolization of ‘the modern style’ by low - class pro- ducers. What enor- mities have been per- petrated under cover of this title! Pieces of carved cabinet- making, fantastic, outrageous, the more closely representing ‘the modern style’ in that they were anpractical, repel- Paver knife: | om carve lent, and annoying ! M. René Lalique Paper wall-hangings insipid in coloring, tracked with crawling worm-like designs! Work in other mediums distasteful to an equal degree ! ‘“But what effort did the artists Keeping Aloof make to correct this unfortunate from the deviation of the movement? Manufacturer Did they organize among them- selves societies for production ? Or, by allying themselves with manufacturers, did they seek to ensure a logical production of their work, based upon sound industrial principles? No. Pendant Their action was quite to the contrary. Remaining

October, 1905

aloof and segregated, they appeared to regard the questions which we have indicated as beneath the proper level of their consideration. Thus miscon- ceiving their own dignity, and failing to appreciate things of paramount importance lying outside their own sphere of thought and action, the authors of the movement whose birth was attended with such brilliant hopes, see it to-day writhing in death-agony.

‘To create is good, without doubt. But to create and to produce in the industrial sense—that is, to multiply one’s creations—is better. The artist congeals, so to speak, his powers by devoting himself to the slow elabora- tion of single pieces, the price of which is necessarily very high—although the remuneration of the artist is nominal— and for which purchasers are rarely found. For this latter fact the artists hold the public responsible, and unquestionably certain faults exist upon this side of the question. But can we reproach the consumer for refusing to purchase articles—for instance, chairs—of the artist-artisan, when he may easily find excellent, although less unusual and recent, designs, at a much lower price, by making selections from commercially produced objects? We must admit that he must follow the latter course, and, consequently that unless the modern movement shall consent to become izdustrialized, it will die in infancy, or, it were better to say, it is still-born.

‘“ But we must hasten to add that the artists are not wholly Wherein the responsible for this threatened danger. For, while they Manufacturers may be criticized for their lack of practical sense, the Erred manufacturers are also gravely in fault, even those who

produce honest and legitimate wares; all others being excluded from the present considerations.

‘The faults of the latter class may be summarized briefly. First, they long ignored, upon principle, the modern move- ment. Their methods of pro- duction were established upon old designs which had been tested and approved by the public. They therefore saw no reason why they should under- take new things, and follow untried courses. They resisted as best they could, and their opposition was vigorous.

‘It would be logical and just that, in causing their new models to be accepted and adopted by the public, the manu- facturers should pledge them- selves to produce in all possible perfection. But they are far from acceding to such condi- tions of justice.

‘Without taking into con- sideration the long, laborious study demanded by every work which rises above the current commonplace, manufacturers, as a rule, under the pretext of economy, purchase their models from low-priced designers. Their action in this respect will be best understood by means of information gained from mem- bers of their own body.

‘*If we ask, for instance, the cost of putting upon the market a new design in textiles, we shall receive for answer that heavy expenditure is required to cover

M. Brandt

M. Gaillard

1635

Decorative Art in France

the price of ‘ pointing,’ (enlarging the original design upon paper ‘ pointed,’ or divided into minute spaces, each representing a single knot of the fabric), and of the cartoons used at the looms. They thus estimate the price paid by them for the first metre of cloth pro- duced, at several thousand francs. They plead, and with truth, that they are forced to practice economy. But they do not exercise judgment in retrenching. Spending freely for the ‘pointing,’ and the cartoons, for every- thing which makes for the realization of the idea into material form, they economize in the matter of the design : the very thing upon which depends the success, or the failure of the new model. To summarize their proceedings: they consent to risk a large sum of money, and, at the beginning of their enterprise, under the pretext of economy, they annihilate all chances of success.

‘“The question now arises as to the extent of the saving thus made. This, upon examination, is found to be quite insignificant. They might purchase the design of a good artist for two, or three hundred francs ; while they choose, instead, to pay eighty, or one hundred francs for a work of no merit. The resulting saving thus reaches, at the most, two hundred francs in a total expenditure of five, six, or ten thousand francs, made in placing upon the market a new design in textiles. From these investigations it is plain that such small economies are illogically and ignorantly devised.

‘“Having proceeded in the manner just described, the manufacturers declare that modern art lies in a hopeless condition. But they are self-deceived ; for the new movement will take root and propagate in France. It is im- possible for a people or a coun- try willingly to sterilize itself: the general evolution must be followed, and the universal im- pulse obeyed. England, Hol- land, Belgium, Germany, Aus- tria, Hungary and Italy are advancing, and France must take the direction indicated by them.

‘* But instead Art Industries of a new in Paris French art

rising from our soil and developing as we might expect it to do, it is ex- otic art that will adapt itself to our conditions. Already in Paris the representatives of for- eign art-industries multiply and flourish. In cabinet-making we have the houses of Waring and Gillow, and Maple, whose heads are Englishmen; Serrurier, who is Belgian; and Amstelhock,,. who is a Hollander. To repre- sent the ceramic art, Copen- hagen and Rozenburg have es- tablished important dépéfs of their wares; further, there are the beautiful Liberty fabrics, the practical Katzerzinn, and many other industrial products distin- guished for their zesthetic value. From the fact of the existence of these establishments there

3elt slide

False Economy

Bronze yases

1636 T Fe

Uy follows a result which appears illogical and absurd: namely, that when Parisians wish to purchase tasteful articles, they must select English paper hangings and textile fabrics,

C] German pewter, Danish pottery, and so

acknowledge the excellence of foreign pro- ducts in the very branches of industry which